The Campaign That Changed Nations

The Gallipoli Campaign, known to Turks as the Battle of Çanakkale, began on April 25, 1915, when Allied forces attempted to force passage through the Dardanelles Strait. The strategic objective was ambitious: capture Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul), knock the Ottoman Empire out of the war, and establish a supply route to Russia through the Black Sea. What planners expected to be a swift operation instead became an eight-month ordeal that would define the national consciousness of Turkey, Australia, and New Zealand.

The peninsula, stretching approximately 60 kilometres into the Aegean Sea, became the stage for one of history’s most brutal campaigns. The terrain itself posed enormous challenges – rugged cliffs, steep ravines, and scrubland that offered little cover but countless hiding places for defenders. The geography that made Gallipoli strategically valuable also made it nearly impossible to conquer.

The Making of Atatürk

Among the Ottoman commanders defending Gallipoli was a 34-year-old lieutenant colonel named Mustafa Kemal, who would later become known as Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. His actions at Gallipoli, particularly his defense of Chunuk Bair, established him as the “Rock of Gallipoli” and catapulted him into national prominence.

Kemal’s tactical brilliance and inspirational leadership during the campaign became legendary. When he famously told his troops, “I am not ordering you to attack, I am ordering you to die,” he embodied the desperate determination that would ultimately repel the Allied invasion.

Kemal’s success at Gallipoli wasn’t just tactical; it was transformational. His ability to coordinate defenses, inspire troops, and maintain morale under impossible circumstances demonstrated the leadership qualities that would later make him the founding father of the Turkish Republic. The victory at Gallipoli became a cornerstone of Turkish national identity and pride, representing the last great stand of the Ottoman Empire and the birth of modern Turkey.

The Staggering Scale of Loss and a Personal Connection to History

The numbers behind the Gallipoli Campaign reveal its devastating human cost. Over 559,000 Allied personnel participated in the campaign, facing more than 300,000 Ottoman defenders. The casualty figures paint a sobering picture of the campaign’s brutality. The Ottoman Empire paid the highest price, with over 87,000 deaths and 300,000 total casualties. Among the Allied forces, Britain and Ireland lost 29,500 lives, Australia 8,709, New Zealand 2,779, and France 12,000. These numbers represent not just military statistics but entire generations of young men who never returned home.

In our tour group, there was a woman from New Zealand whose family story brought the campaign’s human cost into sharp focus. She found the grave of her grandfather’s cousin, who had died during the campaign. Through the Commonwealth War Graves Commission records, she located his final resting place among the rows of white headstones that now mark the peninsula’s cemeteries. She later shared that other family members had survived Gallipoli only to die later at the Battle of the Somme, where over 57,000 British casualties occurred on a single day.

A Source of National Pride

For Turkey, Gallipoli represents far more than a military victory – it embodies the spirit of national resistance and the birth of modern Turkish identity. The campaign is celebrated as a defining moment when Ottoman forces, under Kemal’s leadership, successfully repelled a major Allied invasion. This victory became a rallying point for Turkish nationalism and continues to be commemorated as a source of immense national pride.

The Turkish government established the Gallipoli Peninsula Historical National Park in 1973, covering over 33,000 hectares and including it in the United Nations list of National Parks and Protected Areas. The park serves both as a historical preserve and a place of pilgrimage for Turks, who visit in large numbers to pay their respects to the “Martyrs of Çanakkale”.

See more photos of Gallipoli here

Brunch, Magic Coffee, Chocolate, and Pasta Perfection

Melbourne’s reputation for excellent brunches was confirmed at The Hardware Société. I enjoyed a beef brisket with pearl onions and a soft-boiled egg, as well as an ahi tuna dish served with soft-boiled eggs and hummus.

I had heard of Melbourne’s reputation of having a really strong coffee culture, and I was eager to try the local specialty known as a “Magic”. This Melbourne invention consists of a double ristretto (a short, concentrated espresso shot) topped with steamed milk in a smaller cup than a standard latte. The result is a strong, creamy coffee with a rich flavour profile. While the coffee didn’t impress me as much as I expected, I really enjoyed the latte art.

The city’s culinary scene extends beyond coffee. I noticed a trend of adorning dishes with edible flowers, which adds visual appeal and subtle flavours.

I also visited Koko Black, a local chocolatier. While their actual chocolate tasted mediocre, their chocolate with embedded Tasmanian honeycomb stood out. The sweet, crunchy honeycomb added a nice crunchy texture and flavour to the chocolate.

One of the culinary highlights was dinner at Tipo 00, where we tried their pasta tasting menu. The freshly made pasta was cooked to perfect al dente, offering just the right amount of resistance to the bite. Their squid ink pasta was particularly memorable. This striking black pasta had a subtle briny flavour, with a silky texture that paired nicely with seafood. We took some leftovers home and they still had that al dente texture even after going through the microwave. Although I tried some wine pairings, they paled in comparison to the exceptional wines we had experienced at Oakridge Winery. We also attempted to dine at Serai, a Filipino fusion restaurant, but our poor planning meant we were still too full from our earlier meals to fully appreciate the experience.

On a lighter note, we spotted an ice cream shop called “Bing Chillin,” which I thought funny because it’s essentially a reference how John Cena says “ice cream” in Chinese. No idea if it even sells ice cream or whether it’s good.

Oakridge Winery

The culinary highlight was an indulgent four-course meal with wine pairings at Oakridge Winery in the nearby Yarra Valley. In my excitement, I committed a traveller’s cardinal sin – I forgot to take pictures of most of it.

The menu featured dishes that were a symphony of tastes and textures. We savoured duck with celeriac, chard, and blood orange. Another standout was the Smith & Jackson sirloin (local from the Yarra Valley), accompanied by spinach, charred leek, and horseradish. I particularly enjoyed the interplay of the beef’s richness with the sharp horseradish and slightly bitter charred leek. Even the potatoes served alongside were perfectly crisp, adding a satisfying textural element. For dessert, a chocolate torte arrived paired with artichoke ice cream (I was skeptical about the artichoke, but found surprisingly delightful). In addition, we indulged in a silky smooth buttermilk panna cotta served with sorbet.

Being at a winery, it seemed only fitting to opt for the wine pairing. The 2017 Oakridge Blanc de Blancs was a particular standout. This sparkling wine offered crisp multi-dimensional notes of citrus. Too bad this wine isn’t available where we live. For one of the wines, the waitress could point out in the distance where the grapes came from because those grapes came specifically from this plantation as opposed to the other Oakridge plantations in the area.

We spent nearly three hours at our window-side table, savouring each course while gazing out over the winery. The view of neat rows of vines stretching into the distance added to the overall sensory experience. Our waitress guided us through each course, explaining the intricate details of every dish. Even though her explanations have escaped me, I still appreciated the experience.

After our leisurely meal, we had hoped to take a stroll around the winery to walk off some of our indulgence. However, the weather had other plans. Despite it being only 12°C, the cold felt more biting than we expected.

Queen Victoria Market

This sprawling complex houses vendors selling everything from touristy trinkets to fresh produce. While some areas featured items of questionable quality, the stalls offering movie poster prints and art prints of landmarks of different countries interested me the most.

The market’s expansive food section was particularly impressive, reminiscent of markets I’ve visited in other cities like Vancouver’s Granville Island Market or Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market.

Laneways and Arcades

Melbourne’s laneways are a defining feature of the city’s urban landscape. These narrow streets and alleys, once neglected, have been transformed into vibrant pedestrian thoroughfares lined with cafes, boutiques, and street art. I explored Degraves Street, one of the most famous laneways, and was captivated by its European-style atmosphere and array of eateries.

Nearby, The Block Arcade offered a glimpse into Melbourne’s Victorian-era architecture. This elegant shopping gallery, built in the 1890s, features mosaic-tiled floors, a glass canopy, and wrought iron fixtures. Inside, I discovered the oldest tea rooms in Australia and, surprisingly, a Dr. Seuss art store selling high-end paintings inspired by the beloved children’s author’s works.

Flinders Street Station

Flinders Street Station, with its distinctive yellow façade and green copper dome, serves as a major landmark and transport hub. Built in 1910, it’s Australia’s oldest train station.

It reminded me a bit of Toronto’s Union Station in the sense that they’re both iconic transportation hubs of their respective cities.

Motorsport and Automotive Experiences

As a mild Formula 1 enthusiast, I visited the Melbourne Grand Prix Circuit at Albert Park. I tried to drive around the track, but found some sections blocked off.

The lake at Albert Park offered a view of Melbourne’s skyline. To my surprise, I spotted black swans gliding across the water – a first for me, but probably an unsurprising Australian sight.

Dutton Garage is a great place to go for car enthusiasts. This rare car dealership and showroom houses an impressive collection of vintage and exotic automobiles. I was particularly drawn to the classic Porsche 911s, with their iconic sloping rear deck, round headlights, and rear-mounted air-cooled engines. The showroom also featured sleek Ferraris and a few McLarens too.

I also had the opportunity to visit a BYD dealership. While not available in North America due to market dynamics and potential import restrictions, I got to get a glimpse of these Chinese-made electric cars, that to me had Tesla-like qualities, but at a lower price point, thanks in part to Chinese government subsidies. A cool fact I learned about BYD’s innovative battery technology that they can make batteries that don’t ignite when punctured, potentially allowing the batteries to be integrated into the car’s frame to reduce weight.

Shopping and Urban Exploration

As far as Melbourne’s shopping scene goes, I discovered R.M. Williams, a store specializing in Goodyear welted shoes made of different types of leather (even kangaroo), known for their durability and ability to be resoled (and also very expensive).

We attempted to take the City Circle Tram, a free service that loops around the central business district. We had hoped to learn about the city from the onboard commentary, but unfortunately found it difficult to hear over the noise of the tram and decided to explore on our own instead.

Our exploration also included a leisurely walk along the Yarra River, which winds through Melbourne. On the Sandridge Bridge, it features the “Travellers” exhibit, which is a series glass panels that offer information about the indigenous peoples of Australia and information about the demographics of immigrants (where they’re from, how many there were, why, etc.), reflecting the diverse cultural heritage of the nation. A common theme was that in the 21st century, across the westernized world, we’re being less and less likely to take on immigrants from weaker economic backgrounds.

Check here to see more of Melbourne, and the Oakridge Winery

The city of Cairns itself seems to be dominated by the tourism industry. Probably everybody is here to visit these two places. Buskers were present in the streets juggling fiery torches, or doing the statue routine.

The Great Barrier Reef

Our journey began with a snorkelling tour to the Great Barrier Reef in the Coral Sea with Passions of Paradise. After a two-hour boat ride to Hastings Reef within the GBR, we were grateful for the seasickness pills provided, which kept nausea at bay. The day was pleasantly warm, with temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius, providing comfortable conditions above water. However, as we prepared to enter the water, we found that even with wetsuits on, the ocean felt surprisingly cold. The tour catered to all skill levels, from non-swimmers to experienced scuba divers, ensuring everyone could enjoy the underwater spectacle.

The reef revealed an underwater world. Colourful coral formations stretched as far as the eye could see, home to a diverse array of marine life. We felt fortunate to visit the Great Barrier Reef at this time, aware that climate change poses a significant threat to this delicate ecosystem. We spotted several species of coral, which I think included staghorn coral, brain coral, and acropora (but I’m no expert).

Schools of fish darted around us, including the iconic clownfish, which we were surprised to find were much smaller than expected (the movie Finding Nemo makes them seem so much larger). These iconic fish, have a symbiotic relationship with their host anemones, and rare venture more than a few metres away.

Other marine creatures we encountered included starfish, and a sea cucumber. The highlight was spotting a giant clam, its massive shell partially open, revealing the colourful mantle within. The mantle is the fleshy, visible part of the clam when its shell is open, and often has a blue-green coloration, which are due to symbiotic algae living in their tissues. The presence of a giant clam is an indicator of a healthy reef ecosystem, as these animals are sensitive to changes in water quality and temperature.

The Daintree Rainforest

The next day, we continued with a trip on the Kuranda Skyrail, a series of gondolas that provide a bird’s-eye view of the Daintree Rainforest canopy. This ancient rainforest is estimated to be over 180 million years old, making it one of the oldest continuous tropical rainforests in the world. The Coral Sea to the north provides abundant moisture, while the Great Dividing Range mountains to the south force air to rise, cool, and condense into rainfall to support the lush tropical rainforests.

Our guide shared insights about the forest’s ecology. The rainforest canopy is so dense that it creates a challenging environment for new trees to grow in the understory. Saplings must wait for larger trees to fall before they can access enough sunlight to thrive, a process that can take decades. We also learned about the cassowary, a flightless bird that resembles a modern-day dinosaur. Too bad we didn’t spot one though, but there was a life sized model for us to see.

One of the most intriguing plants we observed was the basket fern. This epiphytic fern grows high up on tree trunks and branches, forming a nest-like structure that collects falling leaves and debris. The decaying matter provides nutrients for the fern, allowing it to thrive without soil. Another fascinating plant was the wait-a-while vine. This climbing palm has long, flexible stems covered in sharp, backwards-facing spines. These barbs allow the vine to hook onto surrounding vegetation as it grows, eventually reaching the canopy where it can access more sunlight. Eventually it might even strangle a taller tree to death. The guide also introduced us to the powder-puff tree, an plant known for its striking red, fuzzy, spiky ball-like flowers, which attracts various pollinators, making it a vital part of the ecosystem. I was really impressed at how different plants took over different biological niches.

Kuranda Koala Gardens

Our rainforest adventure was complemented by a visit to the Kuranda Koala Gardens, where we had the opportunity to see Australia’s iconic marsupials up close. We were surprised to learn that their fur isn’t uniformly grey – their butts are actually a light beige colour.

The gardens also housed other Australian wildlife, including crocodiles, kangaroos, and wallabies. We spotted a charming little yellow bird in a hanging nest (olive sunbird). Outside the gardens, we also saw a ulysses butterfly. Despite what all the pictures show, they actually have wings that are blue on one side and brown on the other.

Culinary Adventures

Our culinary experiences in Cairns were all hits except for one disappointing skewer meal that left much to be desired, with oddly mushy grilled corn. However, we also enjoyed some exceptional dining experiences.

At the Ochre on the Esplanade, we sampled some unique Australian meats. From the left to right, the emu in the emu wonton was dark and rich, reminiscent of beef but with a gamier taste. Next was the kangaroo, but it wasn’t as good as the one in Sydney. The crocodile meat on the other hand was lean and had a texture similar to chicken, with a slightly fishy flavour. The last item was the usual smoked salmon.

One of our most memorable meals was at Salt House, where we dined while watching the sun set over the water. We enjoyed succulent scallops and barramundi.

The highlight of the meal was the MB4+ Black Onyx Grain Fed Scotch Fillet. MB4+ refers to the marbling score of a steak used in Australia beef grading systems and goes from 1 to 9, with 9 being the best. A scotch fillet is essentially the same cut as a ribeye steak, coming from the rib section of the cow. However, while a ribeye typically includes the cap (or spinalis dorsi muscle), a scotch fillet often has this removed. It’s similar to the French entrecôte, though the exact cut can vary slightly. Despite a marbling score of 4/9, the marbling on this particular steak still tasted excellent, resulting in a flavourful and tender dining experience that would be hard to match at a similar price point elsewhere.

Our time in Cairns offered a nice blend of natural wonders and culinary discoveries. From the underwater marvels of the Great Barrier Reef to the ancient beauty of the Daintree Rainforest, and from cuddly koalas to unique Australian cuisine, Cairns provided an awesome experience of Australia’s tropical north.

Check here to see more of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef, and the Kuranda Skyrail

Driving on the “Wrong” Side of the Road

Our journey began with renting a car in Sydney. It had been over ten years since my last experience driving on the left in the UK. As someone accustomed to driving on the right side of the road, I was excited to try it again, and now with more driving experience under my belt, I felt more confident in my abilities. That’s not to say it was totally smooth. The blinkers being on the opposite side of the steering wheel led to a few accidental activations of the windshield wipers. Gauging space around the car was a little more difficult too, and it took me some time to get used to centering myself in the lane.

A Bird’s Eye View

Upon arriving at Scenic World, I was immediately struck by its similarity to the Sea to Sky Gondola in Vancouver. Both attractions offer visitors the chance to ascend a mountain by gondola and explore the surrounding forests and vistas from above.

The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly the gondola ride across the Jamison Valley. As we glided over the treetops, we were treated to a spectacular view of Katoomba Falls cascading down the cliff face.

The Three Sisters, an iconic rock formation that has become synonymous with the Blue Mountains, stood majestically in the distance, their weathered sandstone faces a testament to millions of years of erosion.

Descending into the Valley

One of Scenic World’s unique attractions is its railway – but this is no ordinary train ride. Descending at a 45-degree angle, this former coal mining railway is now used to take visitors down to the valley floor.

It feels like sitting in a rollercoaster, but it descends at a piece that would cause a bit of uneasiness. As we headed down into the lush Jamison Valley, the steepness of the descent provided a thrilling experience that was both exhilarating and slightly unnerving.

Exploring the Valley Floor

Once at the bottom, we took the opportunity to explore the valley floor on foot.

The ancient forest, with its towering eucalyptus trees and diverse understory of ferns and wildflowers, provided a stark contrast to the expansive views we had experienced from above.

A Race Against Time

When our day started, the car rental agent advised us to return the car by 4pm as the location did not support after-hours returns. We left razor thin margins for our drive back and found ourselves racing through the streets of Sydney, navigating unfamiliar roads while driving on the opposite side. We pulled into the rental car parking lot at exactly 4pm.

Initially, the rental agent was hesitant to accept the car, as we weren’t at the counter precisely at closing time. However, after some discussion, he graciously allowed us to return the vehicle. This last-minute dash added an unexpected element of excitement to our day, capping off our Blue Mountains adventure with a final burst of adrenaline.

See more of the Scenic World in the Blue Mountains National Park here

Circular Quay

The Sydney Opera House, with its distinctive sail-like design, is not just an architectural marvel but also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Completed in 1973, this masterpiece by Danish architect Jørn Utzon has become synonymous with Sydney’s skyline. Its unique expressionist modern design features a series of precast concrete “shells” that form the roof structure, creating a striking silhouette against the harbour waters.

Adjacent to the Opera House stands the equally impressive Sydney Harbour Bridge. This steel bridge opened in 1932 and remains the world’s largest steel arch bridge. There is a tourist attraction there where people can walk along the arch of the steel beams (people are tethered for safety).

Souvenir shops lined the waterfront selling stereotypical Australian souvenirs like kangaroo and koala plushies. They also sell a lot of hats, which I recalled that those are also very stereotypically Australian thanks to people like Steve Irwin, the Crocodile Hunter.

The Royal Botanic Garden

Established in 1816, this green oasis in the heart of Sydney is Australia’s oldest scientific institution. The gardens showcase a diverse collection of native and exotic plants, especially ones that are not present where I live. One of the standout flora was the Bird of Paradise plant, native to South Africa but thriving in Sydney’s climate. Its vibrant orange and blue flowers, resembles an exotic bird in flight.

I also encountered a variety of birds that I don’t usually see (I’m told some of them are garbage birds though). One amusing incident involved birds in the trees nearly missing some oblivious bystanders with their droppings (and oblivious even after the fact).

The Royal Botanic Garden proved to be more than just a green space; it was a living museum of biodiversity, a sanctuary for urban wildlife, and a peaceful retreat from the city’s bustling energy.

Barangaroo

We also took a walk through a nearby neighbourhood called Barangaroo. This area, named after an influential Aboriginal woman from the early colonial period, has undergone a remarkable transformation from a disused container terminal to a vibrant waterfront precinct with a mix of parklands, cultural spaces, and modern architecture.

Walking through Barangaroo, with its urban renewal, reminded me of strolling through Yaletown and Olympic Village in Vancouver, offering harbour views and an urban atmosphere.

Manly Beach

People also associate beaches with Australia. Close by to Sydney is Manly Beach. This popular stretch of golden sand is renowned for its excellent surfing conditions and laid-back atmosphere, and it also has an amusing name. According to Capt. Arthur Phillip, who named the beach, wrote of the indigenous people living there, “their confidence and manly behaviour made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place”

Birds also hang out in the nearby trees, chirping so loudly, they sounded like bats. It almost makes it scary to even approach the tree even though I know they’re just birds.

Manly Beach encapsulates the quintessential Australian beach culture – a perfect blend of natural beauty, outdoor activities, and relaxed coastal living.

Culinary Adventures

Sydney’s culinary scene proved to be quite delightful and exotic. In the spirit of trying local specialities, I sampled grilled kangaroo at The Meat and Wine Co. This lean meat, similar in texture to beef, offered a milder flavour with a subtle gamey note. It’s a unique protein that reflects Australia’s distinctive fauna and culinary traditions.

Another local delicacy at The Meat and Wine Co I had the pleasure of tasting was barramundi, also known as Asian sea bass. This white-fleshed fish is prized for its sweet, buttery flavour and firm, moist texture. When cooked, barramundi offers a delicate taste that’s less “fishy” than many other species.

Dinner with friends I know in Sydney at Bar Totti’s was another culinary delight. This pasta place came highly recommended, and it did not disappoint. Luckily, we had a reservation because by the time we arrived, there was a crowd of people waiting at the door. This trendy eatery has earned a reputation for its exceptional pasta dishes cooked al dente with flavourful sauces that complement rather than overwhelm the pasta itself. It’s also renowned for its baked bread, a signature item on their menu. The bread is served fresh out of the oven, airy and fluffy on the inside with a perfectly crisp crust. It’s also accompanied by a variety of dips and spreads.

I also found myself developing a newfound appreciation for salads, discovering that they can be far more than just a boring mix of greens. The city’s cafes showcased salads bursting with variety – multiple types of leafy greens, complex carbohydrates, diverse proteins, and flavourful dressings that elevated the humble salad to a satisfying meal.

Overall, I was quite impressed by Sydney’s food scene.

See more of Sydney here