A Contrast in Cities

The contrast between Vienna and Bratislava becomes apparent immediately upon arrival. While both cities share a Habsburg heritage, Bratislava’s economic situation differs markedly from its Austrian neighbour.

This disparity likely stems from Austria flourishing being a primary driver of European prosperity, while Slovakia being a part of another empires/kingdoms for centuries, and then spending four decades behind the Iron Curtain under Communist rule.

Christmas Spirit

Despite December temperatures hovering around freezing and biting winds sweeping through the streets, Bratislava’s Christmas markets created a warm atmosphere. Unlike Vienna’s markets, which balance merchandise and food, Bratislava’s focus heavily on traditional Slovak cuisine and glühwein.

We sampled a traditional potato pancake served with sour cream and various toppings. It tasted pretty much like a hashbrown with toppings. I also got to try glühwein mixed with absinthe, something I hadn’t had in years and isn’t common to find in North America.

Čumil the Sewer Worker

Among Bratislava’s most photographed attractions is Čumil, the “Man at Work” sculpture. Created by Viktor Hulík in 1997, this bronze figure peers out from a manhole cover. The sculpture brings a bit of character to the old town. While photographing Čumil, we noticed people observing tourists – a reminder to stay vigilant in crowded tourist areas.

The Opera House and National Identity

Our walking tour took us past the Slovak National Theatre. The Neo-Renaissance opera house, completed in 1886, was built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The facade features busts of famous playwrights and composers, none of whom are ethnically Slovak. This reflects the historical reality that Slovak national identity was still forming during the theatre’s construction. The first Slovak-language play was not performed at the opera house until the early 20th century.

Slovakia’s path to nationhood was complex, involving centuries under Hungarian rule, followed by inclusion in Czechoslovakia after World War I. The eventual peaceful dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1993, known as the Velvet Divorce, marked Slovakia’s emergence as an independent nation. The Czech and Slovak languages illustrate this shared heritage, and are still mutually intelligible.

The UFO Bridge and the Memorial to the Jewish Quarter

A poignant stop on our tour was the site of a former synagogue. The Jewish Quarter was demolished during the construction of the UFO Bridge, officially known as the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising, in the 1970s under Soviet rule. By that time, the area had been neglected for decades, likely due to the decimation of Bratislava’s Jewish population during the Holocaust. In its place, there’s now a memorial for where the old synagogue used to be.

The UFO Bridge itself has now become one of Bratislava’s most recognizable landmarks. Spanning the Danube without any supporting columns in the water, the bridge relies on suspension cables for structural integrity. Its unique design, with a circular restaurant perched atop, resembles a flying saucer, giving it the UFO moniker.

Christmas and Easter Traditions

Our guide shared some interesting Slovak holiday traditions. At Christmas, families often purchase live carp, allowing children to play with the fish in the bathtub for a day or two before it is prepared for dinner. Instead of Santa Claus, Slovakia’s version, Ježiško (Baby Jesus), visits children and brings them gifts. Easter brings another curious custom where boys pour water on girls they admire or value (romantic interests and female family members), a tradition thought to bring health and beauty. In return, the girls offer decorated eggs, booze or even money. The guide was completely aware how strange these traditions would sound to foreigners, and if you ask me, the Easter one seems a little bit one-sided.

Ascending to Bratislava Castle

The tour concluded with a climb to Bratislava Castle. Compared to grander castles in the region, Bratislava Castle reflects the city’s more modest resources.

Originally a military fortification, it achieved its greatest splendour under Maria Theresa’s reign in the 18th century when it was converted into a Habsburg residence. After a devastating fire in 1811, the castle fell into disrepair. During the communist era, reconstruction efforts were modest compared to its former glory, resulting in the simpler structure we see today.

From the top of the castle hill, visitors can see wind turbines in the distance. Interestingly, these turbines are located in Austria, as Slovakia does not yet have significant investments in wind energy.

See more of Bratislava here

Upon arrival, the festive atmosphere mirrored that of Vienna, with bustling Christmas markets. While the merchandise largely resembled what was available in Vienna, the culinary offerings stood out. Vendors were actively smoking salmon, roasting whole pigs, and serving gluhwein from massive cauldrons, filling the air with rich and hearty aromas.

One of the more unique items available were the scented ornaments crafted from dried oranges, limes, and pomegranates. As we walked by the stalls, the fruity scents subtly filled the cold winter air.

Despite the constant drizzle that arrived later in the day, we glimpsed Buda Castle rising above the riverbank of the Danube. This palace, dating from the 13th century, has served as the historical seat of Hungarian kings.

While the day trip was marked by weather challenges and train delays, the festive spirit of Budapest, rich food offerings, and the historical sights made the journey memorable.

See more of Budapest here

Christmas Markets and Festive Atmosphere

Vienna transforms into a winter wonderland during the holiday season, with Christmas markets dotting the city landscape. We explored markets at various iconic locations such as St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Rathausplatz (City Hall), Schloss Schönbrunn, and Schloss Belvedere. Each market featured rows of wooden stalls selling ornaments, handcrafted gifts, and warm seasonal drinks.

The markets feature countless stalls serving Glühwein (mulled wine) in decorative mugs, which visitors can keep as souvenirs for a €5 deposit. The hot drinks were perfect for when walking around in the cold. There’s also food like Kaiserschmarrn (like a fluffy shredded pancake with sugar and jam), hot dogs, and chimney cakes.

While many stalls offer Christmas merchandise, we discovered that most vendors source similar items (likely outsourced). However, we learned of an artisanal market featuring exclusively local craftwork, though we weren’t able to visit it during our stay.

We heard about a market that exclusively sold locally made items, though unfortunately, we missed the chance to visit it. Another notable scene was the line of people outside Stephansdom, awaiting Christmas mass, reflecting the importance of the cathedral in Vienna’s holiday traditions. Despite this, the atmosphere remained lively

Museums and Palaces

Vienna is known for its rich collection of museums and palaces. Among the highlights of our visit was the Albertina, though art museums are not my usual preference. A more engaging stop was the Schmetterlinghaus, the butterfly house, located near the Hofburg Palace. This greenhouse contained numerous butterfly species that fluttered among tropical plants, including banana trees. The butterflies flew around at their leisure. Some would land on the leaves, or even on the walking path, so we had to be careful as we walked.

One of the more memorable moments was witnessing a butterfly emerge from its chrysalis. However, the warmth inside contrasted sharply with the cold winter air outside, making heavy winter clothing less comfortable during the visit.

The Schatzkammer, Vienna’s imperial treasury, presented a vast collection of jewellery and regalia from the Habsburg era. The treasury holds significant historical pieces, including the Imperial Crown of Austria and the Royal Scepter, reflecting the power and influence the Habsburg dynasty once held. The collection includes the largest emeralds in the world.

At Schloss Schönbrunn (a UNESCO World Heritage site), we took a guided tour through Maria Theresa’s private quarters, which are only accessible with a guide. Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of the Habsburg dominions, was a pivotal figure in European history, known for modernizing the empire and her diplomatic maneuvers, including the marriage of her daughter Marie Antoinette (one of her 16 children) to Louis XVI of France. Schönbrunn, often likened to Versailles, served as a summer residence for the Habsburgs and features intricate Rococo interiors.

The Kapuzinergruft, the Imperial Crypt, provided a sobering experience as we explored the tombs of the Habsburg family, including those of Franz Joseph I and Maria Theresa. Franz Joseph, who reigned for nearly 68 years, oversaw significant political changes in Europe. The crypt narrates the legacy of the Habsburgs, a family that ruled Austria and much of Europe for centuries.

Culinary Experiences

Vienna’s culinary scene combines traditional Austrian dishes with influences from neighbouring regions. We sampled Flammkuchen, a thin flatbread from the Alsace region topped with crème fraîche instead of tomato sauce. The local Schweinsbraten (roasted pork) came served with Knödel (potato dumplings). This hearty dish involves slow-roasting marinated pork until tender, and the dumplings soak up the rich gravy, creating a filling and comforting plate.

Wiener Schnitzel, one of Austria’s most famous dishes, did not particularly stand out to me. I found the Japanese variation, tonkatsu, to be more enjoyable.

Flight Home in Comfort

The return flight offered a chance to experience business class. Upon boarding, sparkling wine was served, and throughout the flight, options for higher-quality food and drinks were available, including steak, cheese plates, smoked salmon, and Johnnie Walker Black.

The seats reclined fully, providing a more restful sleep, and the thicker blankets added to the comfort. Skippable ads during in-flight entertainment and access to the lounge with additional food and beverages rounded out the experience, making the flight much more enjoyable.

See more of Vienna here

Unlike my last visit to Neuschwanstein, this time I got to visit other sights along the way, like the Linderhof Castle, and Oberammergau. And this time, I got to see the inside of Neuschwanstein, something that I don’t recall ever doing.

Schloss Linderhof was one of the three palaces built by King Ludwig II, and the only one he saw completed. Unlike his father who focused on governing, King Ludwig II preferred his artistic and architectural projects instead. The palace and its extensive grounds were designed to create an idyllic setting, complete with enchanting gardens, water features, and meticulously landscaped terraces. Ludwig drew inspiration from mythology and Wagnerian opera, incorporating themes of fantasy and escapism throughout the palace and its surrounding landscapes.

Along the way to Neuschwanstein, we stopped in a small town of Oberammergau, known for its artistic works. The reason that buildings have murals showing the crucifixion of Jesus Christ because the town is known for the Oberammergau Passion Play.

Käthe Wohlfahrt, a well-known German company selling Christmas themed items, also has a store here to join in the city’s woodcarving traditions.

Schloss Hohenschwangau was built by King Ludgwig II’s father and served as their family’s summer residence. It’s located near the picturesque location near lake Alpsee.

This is where every postcard picture of Neuschwanstein is taken: on the Marienbrücke, a bridge lookout. We walked around the area while waiting for our timed tour entry.

Luckily, the weather was nice, so we had an unobstructed view of the surrounding area.

Schloss Neuschwanstein embodies the visionary dreams of King Ludwig II, who aimed to create a fairytale castle. However, the castle remained unfinished upon the king’s untimely death in 1886. Today, Neuschwanstein stands as a symbol of Ludwig’s artistic and romantic ideals.

Unfortunately, it was forbidden to take pictures of the inside of the castle. I could only post existing content from the public domain. Still, one can still appreciate the interior of Schloss Neuschwanstein. Each room features intricate woodwork, ornate decorations, and vibrant murals referencing chivalry, mythology, and Wagnerian opera. The artistic craftsmanship and attention to detail within the castle’s interior serve as a stunning testament to Ludwig’s unwavering pursuit of beauty and grandeur.

See more photos of Schloss Neuschwanstein here

The instruction book is coil bound and is basically a giant intimidating tome…

The detail is pretty amazing – both inside and outside.

It’s also got minifigs from both the original trilogy and the sequel trilogy! They also include the radar dish from each of the trilogies that can be swapped in and out.

Inside the big box, there are 4 boxes with numbered bags. The instruction book goes in order starting with bag 1 and so on, but it’s not clear which box contains what numbered bags since it’s not sorted – you’re forced to look through all of them. There’s also some weird stuff where there are unnumbered bags and some bags have extra pieces that get used in a different part of the build, but the instructions don’t indicate this at all.

To protect it from dust, I bought some acrylic panels and glued them together to make a box for it. There’s also a stand that the Millennium Falcon is sitting on, which is this display stand.

I found the build pretty cool when I was building stuff like the different rooms inside the ship, and the outer hull sections. Since there is SO much detail everywhere, it can be a little bit tedious to build the little tiny bits of detail everywhere. But in the end, it looks absolutely amazing and is a definitely a conversation piece for guests

This post is not so much an expert chef cooking something, but more so the chronicles of a noob trying to learn the art.

I knew I wanted to sous vide it (what is it?). I wasn’t going to mess around with baking temperatures and times and what not. The sous vide would make the texture and consistency perfect. So I went ahead and looked for recipes.

I found these two:

I pretty much did a hybrid of those 2 videos. Both of them show similar content as to how to season the lamb, but the first one finishes it in the oven and deep fries some herbs for additional aromatics, while the second one uses a blowtorch. I didn’t want to deep fry anything, and I didn’t have a blow torch. So this is what I did:

Ingredients for the seasoning

• 1 tbsp salt
• 2 tsp black pepper
• 80g Colman’s dry mustard powder
• 5 sprigs of rosemary

Ingredients for the glaze

• Leftover juices from the bag after the sous vide process
• 200 mL balsamic vinegar (could be more or less according to taste)

Instructions for cooking the lamb

1. Score the lamb (in a grid pattern with each cut around 0.75″ to 1″ apart)

2. Mix the mustard powder, salt, and black pepper together

3. Rub over the lamb generously
4. Put lamb and rosemary into the sous vide bag

5. Sous vide at 55 °C / 131 °F for 24 hours. Throughout the process, juices from the lamb will collect in the bag. Be sure not to dump the juices since it will be used laterPreheat oven to 232 °C or 450 °FTake the lamb out of the bag and put it into the oven. When putting the lamb in the oven, it helps to prop up the lamb with something like a steaming rack that can go into the oven so the bottom doesn’t get soggy. Alternatively, propping it up with tin foil also works.

6. Cook the oven for 10-15 minutes. The timing here isn’t so important so long as the meat has the right “look” that you want since it’s already cooked from the sous vide.

Instructions for the glaze

The glaze can be applied on the lamb or on the side. I opted to do it on the side since I didn’t know how the glaze would turn out.

1. Mix the juices from the bag and the balsamic vinegar
2. Cook it over medium high heat until it reduces to the point where when you put a spoon into the glaze, the liquid coats the back of the spoon instead of sliding off

The lamb was a fine addition to the rest of the meal we had!

Overall, the meat tasted great. The doneness and tenderness were spot on due to using the sous vide. Some parts of the lamb were unexpectedly gamier, but I think the rub wasn’t as evenly spread as I thought. Also, I think I left the lamb in the freezer too long since the quality of the meat itself had deteriorated a bit, making the lamb meat a bit rougher. The glaze itself added a bit of acidity to the savouriness which was welcome. So I think this was somewhat of a success!

Near the waterfront was the Old Market Hall. It has a small set of shops and cafes, but it seems to be mainly aimed at tourists.

I was recommended to go to the Soup Kitchen for some Finnish seafood soup. It has a tomato base, with some cut up veggies. The protein were chunks of salmon and shrimp. It had a savoury flavour that was somehow perfectly balanced by the acidity. I could taste the intensity of the flavour without it being overpowering – this is something I’d like to know how to replicate in my own home cooking!!

Another popular location in Helsinki is the Esplanadi. It’s essentially a urban park in downtown Helsinki with restaurants and cafes on the side for people to chill at.

On the nearby island of Suomenlinna is the site of an old Finnish sea fortress from the 18th century. It’s a pretty nice place to walk around with views of the water.

There’s also a museum for an old retired Finnish submarine too.

For dinner, I had the chance to try bear meat for the first time! It’s from a Russian-style restaurant called Ravintola Saslik.

The bear itself was grilled and wrapped in bacon. The bear tasted like a rougher red meat. It wasn’t that chewy and fell apart easily. It’s true when people say apex predators don’t taste as good. Unfortunately, I felt super lethargic that day from the hectic days of travelling, so I didn’t have the appetite to really enjoy this meal as much as I wanted to.

At night, the Christmas market at Senate Square is still bustling.

On my last night in Helsinki, I went out with some of the folks I met at the hostel I stayed at. We went out for dinner and drinks and I finished the trip with one last hurrah. I also learned that Finns really like to karaoke! It is said that Kimi Räikkönen really likes karaoke, despite his stone cold responses in his press conferences.

Here’s a bonus picture of a dog that I met while browsing a bookstore! Her name is Lola and she is the bookstore dog. She likes to lie there and take pets from passers-by!

Photos here

The Christmas market going on at the time sold a lot of knick knacks aimed at tourists.

This old town reminded me a lot of the old towns in other cities in Europe. It’s one of the things that a lot of European cities have in common.

Nearby the town square, was a picturesque alley known as St. Catherine’s Passage. It looks like it come straight out of a movie.

The whole town is quite picturesque.

Following the stereotypes of a typical European old town, there’s also a grand cathedral, but since this is eastern Europe, this cathedral belongs to the Orthodox church.

Across from it is the parliament of Estonia. It almost looks like something from a Wes Anderson movie.

There are some nice lookout points too.

Aside from the old town historical sites, Estonia has also had to deal with its Soviet past. Tallinn, at least, decided to remove the old Soviet monuments, but understood their historical significance. So they put some of these statues in a sort of statue graveyard. Perhaps the United States can adopt this strategy as a compromise in their debate on whether or not to remove the old Confederate statues. A big difference is that it seems Estonia seems quite unified in their rejection of the Soviet ideology. They even have a museum about their occupation by the Soviet Union.

Tallinn also has some hipster areas too. They’ve sprung up all over the place! It’s not *all* historical sites.

Photos here

The first destination for the day was Rockefeller Center. This is the place where a giant Christmas tree is placed during the holiday season. The front of it, by the fountain with the statue of Prometheus, would also be a giant ice rink. During the summer, an outdoor restaurant takes its place.

There is also an observation deck at the top known as the “Top of the Rock” that we didn’t go to. They advertise that from up there, people can see an unobstructed view of the whole city.

The inside looks quite nice too!

I guess the designers of Rockefeller Center really like mythological characters because apart from the fountain with Prometheus, there’s also a statue of Atlas.

Beside Rockefeller Center is Radio City Music Hall, an entertainment venue that, for a time, was a really popular tourist destination. It is said that the hydraulics used for their stage were so advanced for its time, that the US Navy used the same hydraulics when constructing aircraft carriers during WWII.

Also beside Rockefeller Center is St. Patrick’s Cathedral. I always thought everything in NYC was really modern, so I didn’t expect such historical architecture.

It happened to be a Sunday that day, so the inside was filled with people attending church.

Our next destination in the afternoon was the Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum. That place was so interesting for me that it would make this post super long, so I think I’ll save it for a separate post.

More photos here