We landed late in the day in Auckland, and at that time many restaurants were already closed. We managed to get to Beast & Butterflies fifteen minutes before the kitchen closed. We indulged in two standout dishes: the first was a lamb rump from Hawke’s Bay, a region in the North Island famous for its quality meats, and the second was a whole yellow belly flounder, a fish native to New Zealand waters. The lamb was cooked to perfection and was accompanied by sweet mini peppers, and briny olives. The flounder had a satisfying char on the exterior and was dressed with confit lemon, adding a subtle citrus note, and scattered with capers and parsley for bursts of salt and freshness.

After our countryside adventures, we returned to Auckland for the final leg of our trip. By the time we arrived, dusk had already settled over the city. A thick blanket of fog obscured much of the harbour. The true culinary gem of our Auckland experience was Ahi, a restaurant that takes pride in sourcing ingredients from across New Zealand. The menu even lists the local origin of the main component for each dish.

Each dish showcased a different region of the country. We began with a unique appetizer from the Hunter Hills in the South Island: wallaby tartare served on a chip made from puffed wagyu beef tendon. Tartare, being a preparation of finely chopped raw meat, offers a pure, unadulterated taste of the protein. In this case, the wallaby tartare presented a lean, mild gamey flavour profile with a subtle sweetness. As for the crispy chip underneath, while it was good, I wouldn’t have known it was a wagyu beef tendon without being told.

Next, we savoured a Te Matuku oyster from Waiheke Island, located in the Hauraki Gulf near Auckland. The oyster was accompanied by apple marigold and a morning cider sauce, which added a subtle sweetness and acidity that complemented the briny freshness of the oyster.

From Akaroa Harbour on the Banks Peninsula, we enjoyed vodka-cured Akaroa salmon. The dish featured a bloody mary dressing, confit green tomatoes (essentially tomatoes slowcooked into a paste), and dill crème fraîche. The rich, silky texture of the salmon was perfectly offset by the tangy dressing.

Our main course featured Provenance lamb rump (a cut from the back of the lamb near the loin) from Ranfurly in Central Otago. The lamb was served with brussels sprouts, sheep’s labneh (a Middle Eastern-style yogurt cheese), kyoho grapes, and smoked kohlrabi (a type of German cabbage). The lamb rump itself had a crisp layer on the outside with a tender inside.

We also tried the butterfish, a species found in the coastal waters around New Zealand. It was served with celeriac pappardelle, scampi velouté (French-style sauce), mushrooms from Ora’s Farm, and a sunflower seed gremolata (an herb sauce). The delicate flavour of the butterfish was elevated by the earthy mushrooms and the rich, creamy velouté.

To conclude our meal, we indulged in a Kapiti honey cake, accompanied by rhubarb and cardamom sorbet and orange mascarpone. The dessert was a perfect balance of sweet and tart flavours, with the aromatic cardamom adding depth to the refreshing sorbet.

Throughout our meal, the waiter was exceptionally knowledgeable, providing us with fascinating details about each dish and its origin. This added an educational element to our dining experience. While our time in Auckland was brief, these culinary experiences left us with a newfound appreciation for New Zealand’s food scene.

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Brunch, Magic Coffee, Chocolate, and Pasta Perfection

Melbourne’s reputation for excellent brunches was confirmed at The Hardware Société. I enjoyed a beef brisket with pearl onions and a soft-boiled egg, as well as an ahi tuna dish served with soft-boiled eggs and hummus.

I had heard of Melbourne’s reputation of having a really strong coffee culture, and I was eager to try the local specialty known as a “Magic”. This Melbourne invention consists of a double ristretto (a short, concentrated espresso shot) topped with steamed milk in a smaller cup than a standard latte. The result is a strong, creamy coffee with a rich flavour profile. While the coffee didn’t impress me as much as I expected, I really enjoyed the latte art.

The city’s culinary scene extends beyond coffee. I noticed a trend of adorning dishes with edible flowers, which adds visual appeal and subtle flavours.

I also visited Koko Black, a local chocolatier. While their actual chocolate tasted mediocre, their chocolate with embedded Tasmanian honeycomb stood out. The sweet, crunchy honeycomb added a nice crunchy texture and flavour to the chocolate.

One of the culinary highlights was dinner at Tipo 00, where we tried their pasta tasting menu. The freshly made pasta was cooked to perfect al dente, offering just the right amount of resistance to the bite. Their squid ink pasta was particularly memorable. This striking black pasta had a subtle briny flavour, with a silky texture that paired nicely with seafood. We took some leftovers home and they still had that al dente texture even after going through the microwave. Although I tried some wine pairings, they paled in comparison to the exceptional wines we had experienced at Oakridge Winery. We also attempted to dine at Serai, a Filipino fusion restaurant, but our poor planning meant we were still too full from our earlier meals to fully appreciate the experience.

On a lighter note, we spotted an ice cream shop called “Bing Chillin,” which I thought funny because it’s essentially a reference how John Cena says “ice cream” in Chinese. No idea if it even sells ice cream or whether it’s good.

Oakridge Winery

The culinary highlight was an indulgent four-course meal with wine pairings at Oakridge Winery in the nearby Yarra Valley. In my excitement, I committed a traveller’s cardinal sin – I forgot to take pictures of most of it.

The menu featured dishes that were a symphony of tastes and textures. We savoured duck with celeriac, chard, and blood orange. Another standout was the Smith & Jackson sirloin (local from the Yarra Valley), accompanied by spinach, charred leek, and horseradish. I particularly enjoyed the interplay of the beef’s richness with the sharp horseradish and slightly bitter charred leek. Even the potatoes served alongside were perfectly crisp, adding a satisfying textural element. For dessert, a chocolate torte arrived paired with artichoke ice cream (I was skeptical about the artichoke, but found surprisingly delightful). In addition, we indulged in a silky smooth buttermilk panna cotta served with sorbet.

Being at a winery, it seemed only fitting to opt for the wine pairing. The 2017 Oakridge Blanc de Blancs was a particular standout. This sparkling wine offered crisp multi-dimensional notes of citrus. Too bad this wine isn’t available where we live. For one of the wines, the waitress could point out in the distance where the grapes came from because those grapes came specifically from this plantation as opposed to the other Oakridge plantations in the area.

We spent nearly three hours at our window-side table, savouring each course while gazing out over the winery. The view of neat rows of vines stretching into the distance added to the overall sensory experience. Our waitress guided us through each course, explaining the intricate details of every dish. Even though her explanations have escaped me, I still appreciated the experience.

After our leisurely meal, we had hoped to take a stroll around the winery to walk off some of our indulgence. However, the weather had other plans. Despite it being only 12°C, the cold felt more biting than we expected.

Queen Victoria Market

This sprawling complex houses vendors selling everything from touristy trinkets to fresh produce. While some areas featured items of questionable quality, the stalls offering movie poster prints and art prints of landmarks of different countries interested me the most.

The market’s expansive food section was particularly impressive, reminiscent of markets I’ve visited in other cities like Vancouver’s Granville Island Market or Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market.

Laneways and Arcades

Melbourne’s laneways are a defining feature of the city’s urban landscape. These narrow streets and alleys, once neglected, have been transformed into vibrant pedestrian thoroughfares lined with cafes, boutiques, and street art. I explored Degraves Street, one of the most famous laneways, and was captivated by its European-style atmosphere and array of eateries.

Nearby, The Block Arcade offered a glimpse into Melbourne’s Victorian-era architecture. This elegant shopping gallery, built in the 1890s, features mosaic-tiled floors, a glass canopy, and wrought iron fixtures. Inside, I discovered the oldest tea rooms in Australia and, surprisingly, a Dr. Seuss art store selling high-end paintings inspired by the beloved children’s author’s works.

Flinders Street Station

Flinders Street Station, with its distinctive yellow façade and green copper dome, serves as a major landmark and transport hub. Built in 1910, it’s Australia’s oldest train station.

It reminded me a bit of Toronto’s Union Station in the sense that they’re both iconic transportation hubs of their respective cities.

Motorsport and Automotive Experiences

As a mild Formula 1 enthusiast, I visited the Melbourne Grand Prix Circuit at Albert Park. I tried to drive around the track, but found some sections blocked off.

The lake at Albert Park offered a view of Melbourne’s skyline. To my surprise, I spotted black swans gliding across the water – a first for me, but probably an unsurprising Australian sight.

Dutton Garage is a great place to go for car enthusiasts. This rare car dealership and showroom houses an impressive collection of vintage and exotic automobiles. I was particularly drawn to the classic Porsche 911s, with their iconic sloping rear deck, round headlights, and rear-mounted air-cooled engines. The showroom also featured sleek Ferraris and a few McLarens too.

I also had the opportunity to visit a BYD dealership. While not available in North America due to market dynamics and potential import restrictions, I got to get a glimpse of these Chinese-made electric cars, that to me had Tesla-like qualities, but at a lower price point, thanks in part to Chinese government subsidies. A cool fact I learned about BYD’s innovative battery technology that they can make batteries that don’t ignite when punctured, potentially allowing the batteries to be integrated into the car’s frame to reduce weight.

Shopping and Urban Exploration

As far as Melbourne’s shopping scene goes, I discovered R.M. Williams, a store specializing in Goodyear welted shoes made of different types of leather (even kangaroo), known for their durability and ability to be resoled (and also very expensive).

We attempted to take the City Circle Tram, a free service that loops around the central business district. We had hoped to learn about the city from the onboard commentary, but unfortunately found it difficult to hear over the noise of the tram and decided to explore on our own instead.

Our exploration also included a leisurely walk along the Yarra River, which winds through Melbourne. On the Sandridge Bridge, it features the “Travellers” exhibit, which is a series glass panels that offer information about the indigenous peoples of Australia and information about the demographics of immigrants (where they’re from, how many there were, why, etc.), reflecting the diverse cultural heritage of the nation. A common theme was that in the 21st century, across the westernized world, we’re being less and less likely to take on immigrants from weaker economic backgrounds.

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