Gibraltar itself represents a geographical and political anomaly, a British Overseas Territory situated on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Morocco. As we drove closer, the landscape transformed completely, and soon we could see what defines the entire region: the Rock of Gibraltar towering massively above everything else, its limestone bulk rising over 400 metres above sea level.

First Glimpse: Europa Point and the Southern Edge

Our initial stop was Europa Point, the southernmost tip of Gibraltar, a flat, rocky headland that marks the boundary between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. The point gets its name from the mythological figure Europa.

Near Europa Point sits Gorham’s Cave Complex, a cluster of archaeological sites. The complex consists of caves situated at sea level, each containing archaeological and palaeontological deposits spanning over 100,000 years of Neanderthal occupation. In 2016, this site received UNESCO World Heritage status, earning its designation because of the exceptional evidence it holds about how Neanderthals lived. We tried making a spontaneous visit, only to be turned away as the site operates on an extremely restricted access system, with a three-year waiting list to gain entry for serious visitors. The limited access, while unfortunate for us, reflects the delicate nature of these sites, where any uncontrolled traffic would risk disturbing irreplaceable scientific evidence.

The Monkeys on the Mountain: Encounters with Barbary Macaques

As we ventured toward St Michael’s Cave, ascending the winding paths through the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, we began encountering the Rock’s most famous residents: the Barbary macaques. They represent Europe’s only free-living wild monkey population.

Tourists constantly attempted to feed them, despite clear warnings. The animals have learned to exploit this human generosity, demonstrating remarkable problem-solving by unzipping bags and rifling through pockets in search of food.

The Cathedral Beneath the Rock: St Michael’s Cave

The path to St Michael’s Cave climbs steeply on a well-paved road for thirty minutes before reaching the entrance. Several lookout points along the way made the walk up less of a grind.

The cave system itself is a network of interconnected chambers carved over millions of years by rainwater slowly percolating through limestone. Today, the largest chamber functions as a space for hosted concerts, theatrical productions, and opera performances. The cave derives much of its visual drama from its extensive formations of stalactites and stalagmites – mineral-rich water dripping from the ceiling deposits layer upon layer of dissolved rock, gradually building downward from the roof while simultaneously building upward from the floor. Some stalactites hang like pale icicles; others have fused with stalagmites rising to meet them, creating continuous columns of mineral deposit.

The name derives from a similar grotto in Monte Gargano, Italy, where – according to Catholic tradition – the Archangel Michael made an appearance. This connection explains why the cave carries religious significance despite being fundamentally a geological formation rather than a sacred site in the traditional sense.

An installation called “The Awakening,” a light and sound show, transformed the cave into an additional cultural experience. Within this light installation appears an ethereal figure – an angel formed by the projection mapping technology and the natural rock formations.

A Short Stay

Despite the natural and historical richness of what Gibraltar offers, we didn’t linger longer than a few hours. Tourism in Gibraltar often works this way – the territory is small, and its main attractions cluster around the Rock. Many visitors arrive on day trips from southern Spain, explore the key sites, and then depart. We were no different. We faced a 4.5-hour drive toward Granada, leaving Gibraltar behind and transitioning into the landscapes of inland Andalusia.

See more of Gibraltar here

A Contrast in Cities

The contrast between Vienna and Bratislava becomes apparent immediately upon arrival. While both cities share a Habsburg heritage, Bratislava’s economic situation differs markedly from its Austrian neighbour.

This disparity likely stems from Austria flourishing being a primary driver of European prosperity, while Slovakia being a part of another empires/kingdoms for centuries, and then spending four decades behind the Iron Curtain under Communist rule.

Christmas Spirit

Despite December temperatures hovering around freezing and biting winds sweeping through the streets, Bratislava’s Christmas markets created a warm atmosphere. Unlike Vienna’s markets, which balance merchandise and food, Bratislava’s focus heavily on traditional Slovak cuisine and glühwein.

We sampled a traditional potato pancake served with sour cream and various toppings. It tasted pretty much like a hashbrown with toppings. I also got to try glühwein mixed with absinthe, something I hadn’t had in years and isn’t common to find in North America.

Čumil the Sewer Worker

Among Bratislava’s most photographed attractions is Čumil, the “Man at Work” sculpture. Created by Viktor Hulík in 1997, this bronze figure peers out from a manhole cover. The sculpture brings a bit of character to the old town. While photographing Čumil, we noticed people observing tourists – a reminder to stay vigilant in crowded tourist areas.

The Opera House and National Identity

Our walking tour took us past the Slovak National Theatre. The Neo-Renaissance opera house, completed in 1886, was built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The facade features busts of famous playwrights and composers, none of whom are ethnically Slovak. This reflects the historical reality that Slovak national identity was still forming during the theatre’s construction. The first Slovak-language play was not performed at the opera house until the early 20th century.

Slovakia’s path to nationhood was complex, involving centuries under Hungarian rule, followed by inclusion in Czechoslovakia after World War I. The eventual peaceful dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1993, known as the Velvet Divorce, marked Slovakia’s emergence as an independent nation. The Czech and Slovak languages illustrate this shared heritage, and are still mutually intelligible.

The UFO Bridge and the Memorial to the Jewish Quarter

A poignant stop on our tour was the site of a former synagogue. The Jewish Quarter was demolished during the construction of the UFO Bridge, officially known as the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising, in the 1970s under Soviet rule. By that time, the area had been neglected for decades, likely due to the decimation of Bratislava’s Jewish population during the Holocaust. In its place, there’s now a memorial for where the old synagogue used to be.

The UFO Bridge itself has now become one of Bratislava’s most recognizable landmarks. Spanning the Danube without any supporting columns in the water, the bridge relies on suspension cables for structural integrity. Its unique design, with a circular restaurant perched atop, resembles a flying saucer, giving it the UFO moniker.

Christmas and Easter Traditions

Our guide shared some interesting Slovak holiday traditions. At Christmas, families often purchase live carp, allowing children to play with the fish in the bathtub for a day or two before it is prepared for dinner. Instead of Santa Claus, Slovakia’s version, Ježiško (Baby Jesus), visits children and brings them gifts. Easter brings another curious custom where boys pour water on girls they admire or value (romantic interests and female family members), a tradition thought to bring health and beauty. In return, the girls offer decorated eggs, booze or even money. The guide was completely aware how strange these traditions would sound to foreigners, and if you ask me, the Easter one seems a little bit one-sided.

Ascending to Bratislava Castle

The tour concluded with a climb to Bratislava Castle. Compared to grander castles in the region, Bratislava Castle reflects the city’s more modest resources.

Originally a military fortification, it achieved its greatest splendour under Maria Theresa’s reign in the 18th century when it was converted into a Habsburg residence. After a devastating fire in 1811, the castle fell into disrepair. During the communist era, reconstruction efforts were modest compared to its former glory, resulting in the simpler structure we see today.

From the top of the castle hill, visitors can see wind turbines in the distance. Interestingly, these turbines are located in Austria, as Slovakia does not yet have significant investments in wind energy.

See more of Bratislava here

Upon arrival, the festive atmosphere mirrored that of Vienna, with bustling Christmas markets. While the merchandise largely resembled what was available in Vienna, the culinary offerings stood out. Vendors were actively smoking salmon, roasting whole pigs, and serving gluhwein from massive cauldrons, filling the air with rich and hearty aromas.

One of the more unique items available were the scented ornaments crafted from dried oranges, limes, and pomegranates. As we walked by the stalls, the fruity scents subtly filled the cold winter air.

Despite the constant drizzle that arrived later in the day, we glimpsed Buda Castle rising above the riverbank of the Danube. This palace, dating from the 13th century, has served as the historical seat of Hungarian kings.

While the day trip was marked by weather challenges and train delays, the festive spirit of Budapest, rich food offerings, and the historical sights made the journey memorable.

See more of Budapest here

Driving on the “Wrong” Side of the Road

Our journey began with renting a car in Sydney. It had been over ten years since my last experience driving on the left in the UK. As someone accustomed to driving on the right side of the road, I was excited to try it again, and now with more driving experience under my belt, I felt more confident in my abilities. That’s not to say it was totally smooth. The blinkers being on the opposite side of the steering wheel led to a few accidental activations of the windshield wipers. Gauging space around the car was a little more difficult too, and it took me some time to get used to centering myself in the lane.

A Bird’s Eye View

Upon arriving at Scenic World, I was immediately struck by its similarity to the Sea to Sky Gondola in Vancouver. Both attractions offer visitors the chance to ascend a mountain by gondola and explore the surrounding forests and vistas from above.

The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly the gondola ride across the Jamison Valley. As we glided over the treetops, we were treated to a spectacular view of Katoomba Falls cascading down the cliff face.

The Three Sisters, an iconic rock formation that has become synonymous with the Blue Mountains, stood majestically in the distance, their weathered sandstone faces a testament to millions of years of erosion.

Descending into the Valley

One of Scenic World’s unique attractions is its railway – but this is no ordinary train ride. Descending at a 45-degree angle, this former coal mining railway is now used to take visitors down to the valley floor.

It feels like sitting in a rollercoaster, but it descends at a piece that would cause a bit of uneasiness. As we headed down into the lush Jamison Valley, the steepness of the descent provided a thrilling experience that was both exhilarating and slightly unnerving.

Exploring the Valley Floor

Once at the bottom, we took the opportunity to explore the valley floor on foot.

The ancient forest, with its towering eucalyptus trees and diverse understory of ferns and wildflowers, provided a stark contrast to the expansive views we had experienced from above.

A Race Against Time

When our day started, the car rental agent advised us to return the car by 4pm as the location did not support after-hours returns. We left razor thin margins for our drive back and found ourselves racing through the streets of Sydney, navigating unfamiliar roads while driving on the opposite side. We pulled into the rental car parking lot at exactly 4pm.

Initially, the rental agent was hesitant to accept the car, as we weren’t at the counter precisely at closing time. However, after some discussion, he graciously allowed us to return the vehicle. This last-minute dash added an unexpected element of excitement to our day, capping off our Blue Mountains adventure with a final burst of adrenaline.

See more of the Scenic World in the Blue Mountains National Park here