Unlike my last visit to Neuschwanstein, this time I got to visit other sights along the way, like the Linderhof Castle, and Oberammergau. And this time, I got to see the inside of Neuschwanstein, something that I don’t recall ever doing.

Schloss Linderhof was one of the three palaces built by King Ludwig II, and the only one he saw completed. Unlike his father who focused on governing, King Ludwig II preferred his artistic and architectural projects instead. The palace and its extensive grounds were designed to create an idyllic setting, complete with enchanting gardens, water features, and meticulously landscaped terraces. Ludwig drew inspiration from mythology and Wagnerian opera, incorporating themes of fantasy and escapism throughout the palace and its surrounding landscapes.

Along the way to Neuschwanstein, we stopped in a small town of Oberammergau, known for its artistic works. The reason that buildings have murals showing the crucifixion of Jesus Christ because the town is known for the Oberammergau Passion Play.

Käthe Wohlfahrt, a well-known German company selling Christmas themed items, also has a store here to join in the city’s woodcarving traditions.

Schloss Hohenschwangau was built by King Ludgwig II’s father and served as their family’s summer residence. It’s located near the picturesque location near lake Alpsee.

This is where every postcard picture of Neuschwanstein is taken: on the Marienbrücke, a bridge lookout. We walked around the area while waiting for our timed tour entry.

Luckily, the weather was nice, so we had an unobstructed view of the surrounding area.

Schloss Neuschwanstein embodies the visionary dreams of King Ludwig II, who aimed to create a fairytale castle. However, the castle remained unfinished upon the king’s untimely death in 1886. Today, Neuschwanstein stands as a symbol of Ludwig’s artistic and romantic ideals.

Unfortunately, it was forbidden to take pictures of the inside of the castle. I could only post existing content from the public domain. Still, one can still appreciate the interior of Schloss Neuschwanstein. Each room features intricate woodwork, ornate decorations, and vibrant murals referencing chivalry, mythology, and Wagnerian opera. The artistic craftsmanship and attention to detail within the castle’s interior serve as a stunning testament to Ludwig’s unwavering pursuit of beauty and grandeur.

See more photos of Schloss Neuschwanstein here

Bastogne

The Battle of the Bulge (known in German as the Unternehmen Wacht am Rhein – Operation Watch on the Rhine) was the last major German offensive in the western front during World War II. The Germans attempted to use this offensive to break the Allied offensive on that front and force the western allies to negotiate a peace treaty. The territory taken by the Germans during the offensive resembled a “bulge” on the map, hence its name.

During the battle, Bastogne was surrounded by German forces, and when the Germans asked the Americans in Bastogne to surrender, Brigadier General McAuliffe famously answered “nuts!” to the German request.

We stayed overnight in the same farmhouse which served as the former field headquarters of the legendary American 101st Airborne Division during the battle. The staff there mentioned that the same family still owns the farmhouse to this day and that some of them had perished in concentration camps during the course of the war.

They even decorated in the interior with old helmets and ammo boxes.

I wouldn’t consider the place in the middle of nowhere, but maybe trying to find it at night isn’t the best idea.

Just look for the tank turret out front I guess!

We tried going to the Bastogne Museum, but little did we know that the Bastogne War Museum was closed between 20. January 2020 to 19. February 2020. I knew it was low season, but I didn’t think it was so not busy that the entire museum would be closed for a whole month! The only exhibit we got to see was the East Germany open air exhibit outside showing off art painted on the tank, slabs of the Berlin Wall on old Trabants.

Nearby the museum was the Mardasson Memorial, a monument dedicated to the American soldiers who fought the Battle of the Bulge. Inside the memorial, carved panels tell the story of the battle.

The weather really cooperated with us today! We had clear blue skies all day, and got to see the the thin layers of morning frost over the vast farm fields.

Liège

The weather didn’t cooperate for long though because it became like this on our way to Liège…

The thing that surprised me about Liège was how seedy it was. We were hanging out around Place St Lambert, and it felt like people were subtlely eyeing us from the side of the street. In once instance, the moment we turned corner, a man glanced at us and immediately started walking in our direction. I glanced at him some more and eventually he went away. Yeah, we didn’t stay long in Liège.

I think one way to explain why it was so seedy was that Wallonia was no longer Belgium’s center of industry like it was in the late 19th and early 20th century. As the industry went to neighbouring Flanders, the local economy suffered.

Drielandenpunt

Next up, Drielandenpunt, the triple point between Germany, Netherlands, and Belgium. It’s also simultaneously the highest point in the entire Netherlands, a miniscule 322.5m above sea level.

Aachen

Not far away from the Drielandenpunt, was the westernmost city in Germany, Aachen. This is where 31 Holy Roman Emperors were crowned. Charlemagne (his bust pictured below) himself had his imperial medieval residence here.

The Aachen Cathedral shown below was the burial location of Charlemagne. The chapel shown in the middle is the location of the coronation of the Holy Roman Emperors. Despite the name, the Holy Romans Empire was neither holy nor Roman, nor an empire.

As a “holy” empire they weren’t exactly unified by religion. It wasn’t solely catholic and had a significant population of Protestants.

It wasn’t really Roman since for most of its history it didn’t rule over what the Roman Empire ruled over (although it did for a time) and its centre of power was ultimately in Germany. Arguably, the Byzantines or the Eastern Roman Empire was the true successor to the Roman Empire. They were a part of the Roman Empire when it fell and it continued the empire in the east until it fell in the 15th century to the Ottoman Turks.

Technically, it was an empire (at least officially) for a time, until their defeat in the Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648), which resulted in the kingdoms within the empire effectively receiving independence from the empire.

For lunch, I finally got the chance to eat Eisbein (bottom dish), a pork knuckle! It’s simmered for several hours in broth and served with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes! If you like meat, this is the dish for you. The above dish is a schnitzel – thin slice of meat (thinned via pounding) that’s breaded and fried.

Bonn

From Aachen, we drove to Bonn to meet up with a friend, who moved to Bonn from Taiwan to pursue a PhD in chemical engineering. We were so full from lunch, we only had a small snack for dinner at a local pub.

Since it was a Bavarian pub, it sold Bavarian specialities like weisswurst (shown on bottom – literally white sausage). It’s a sausage made from veal! The bread in the basket is a very delicious German pretzel. It’s got a nice cripsy outside flavoured with salt with a soft inside.

After dinner, we explored the city a little bit and visited the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven. The house is one of the few remaining middle-class homes of the era.

Bonn is also the world headquarters of an amazing brand of gummy bears – Haribo! It was founded by Hans Riegel in Bonn, hence the name Haribo. People who hear about Haribo for the first time usually think it comes from Japan, and are almost always surprised to find out it’s German! The outlet store not far from Bonn city centre has a MASSIVE selection of all sorts of Haribo variants! It’s got gummy bears, sour worms, licorice, and more! I definitely recommend the gummy bears (of course), the frogs, coca colas, and the Phantasia pack!

That concludes our 7th day. The next day we’d travel to more German cities – Cologne and Düsseldorf.

Photos:

• Bastogne
• Liège
• Drielandenpunt
• Aachen
• Bonn

The main atrium of the castle was probably the most impressive room.

Apparently King Ludwig II was born here.

For some reason, this castle had a Chinese themed room. I’m not sure why.

There is also a room with paintings of various women that were seen as beautiful.

There’s also an artifact or prize that the Bavarian Empire obtained due to their assistance to the French Empire during Napoleon’s battle against the Third Coalition in Austerlitz (Part of the Napoleonic Wars). It’s nice to see a piece of history like that. It’s more interesting to me than seeing the palace itself.

I don’t ever recall seeing stuff like this in other castles like Versailles and Neuschwanstein or if I did, it definitely didn’t stick that well in my head. The architecture of this castle was definitely not the greatest, but what I saw inside was quite different from what I had initially expected.

Link to photo album here

Herrenchiemsee

We took a ferry to some of the islands in the lake. One of them is called the Herreninsel, and on that island there is an unfinished castle, built by King Ludwig II. The castle is called the “Neues Schloss Herrenchiemsee”, which translates to the “New Palace of Herrenchiemsee”.

Ludwig II was inspired by the construction of the French palace of Versailles and so he wanted to build a palace just like it. Unfortunately, he didn’t have quite as much money as Louis XIV, so he couldn’t finish his castle.

I would have liked to take more pictures of the castle, but we were forbidden to take any. From what I can recall, a lot of rooms were modeled after rooms in the Palace of Versailles, except they were unfinished.

Fraueninsel

Another island is the Fraueninsel. On this island, there is a monastery.

Some people also live on this island, but there aren’t many. The houses here are probably vacation homes for rich people.

Leberkäse

For lunch, I had Leberkäse, which is a traditional Bavarian dish. Directly translated, it means liver cheese, but I’m not sure how much liver was in it though. The meat actually consists of corned beef, pork, bacon and onions baked into a shape like a slice of bread. I guess it is Bavarian meatloaf.  The fried egg on top was also a nice touch.  The roast potatoes on the side was also really good.  It’s probably the best way to cook potatoes.

Chiemsee

The weather was really good that day despite the 38°C heat wave weather and the visibility was really good.

The nice thing about Chiemsee is that it isn’t as famous of a travel destination for North Americans and so it makes it a lot less touristy.

Link to photo album here

My companion and I spent the next day checking out the route to the workplace.  Google Maps shows a 2 km walk, but it’s uphill.  It’s always a good idea to check out the place first so we don’t get lost trying to get there on the first day of work.

The trek to the workplace showed us both how physically unfit we were.  After climbing many flights of stairs, up many slopes, taking a few wrong turns, and thirty minutes later, we made it there.

Needless to say, this walk provides VERY good exercise for the both of us.  I think I’m going to try walking up to work everyday.  Hopefully this habit will stick!

Where we were headed

The terrain around here makes hillside houses to be very common.  It’s not like Vancouver where most of the land doesn’t allow for this as much.

Half-way there

We climbed many of these

I found it interesting how there were little ramps there that strollers could follow.  The person pushing the stroller could walk on the steps in between.  I’ve never seen any of those in Canada.

Looking down the mountain

Finally arrived!

In addition to the Königsbau, and the Neue Schloss that I visited and wrote about in Part I, I also visited the a church known as the Stiftskirche.  The history of this church extends to well over 1000 years, starting from its roots in the 10th and 11th century.  However, much of the church’s original features were lost due to the church’s near destruction from Allied bombing raids near the end of World War II.

The church’s clock tower and entrance

Looking up the clock tower

The rear of the church

Since the restoration of the church in the 50’s, it’s interior features historical as well as modern elements.

Interior of the church

Statues of the Counts of Württemberg

Before entering the main atrium of the church, there was a display that told the story of the history of this church.  Unfortunately, it was all in German, so I could not understand.

Before actually doing any sightseeing, our landlady had discovered a mistake to our residence permit that we completed the day before at the Rathaus (town hall) in Gerlingen, so our trip to go back there to get it fixed. The next thing we had to do was apply for something called an “Aufenthaltstitel” at the Landratsamt (literally translates to District Office) in Ludwigsburg. Trying to get to where we wanted would be impossible if we didn’t have a map to guide us. On the way there we came across some interesting sights.

A Church in Ludwigsburg

Looks like Government Offices of Some Sort

Inside the Landratsamt, we knew exactly which room we needed to go and who we needed to see. When we got there, we ran into a slight problem: the person we needed to see didn’t speak English. Neither of us spoke German. We ended up using a pay phone to call our supervisor to see what we could do. Luckily, he managed to help us complete our paperwork there by talking to the people at the office over the phone.

While they were looking at our passports, my supervisor and the person working at the office had a long conversation about the visa that we acquired in Canada. Although, I can’t speak German, I was able to catch some words in their conversation and looked it up in the German translator on my phone. I caught two words. One word meant “peculiar” and the other word meant “circumstance”. Juxtaposing these words did not make our situation look good. If we failed to complete the paperwork at the Landratsamt, we could not legally start our internship until we get the proper papers. Luckily, everything went well. That was a relief.

Since it was only noon when we finished in Ludwigsburg, we decided to go to the city center of Stuttgart. Unfortunately, our lack of familiarity with the city’s metro led to us taking the wrong train. It took us further away from our destination. After looking a bunch of transit maps, we took the correct train to Stuttgart after a 25 minute wait.

Typical Train Station in the Stuttgart Region

Upon arriving at the city center, we were greeted by sights of very distinct architecture. Many of these buildings had been around for hundreds of years.

The Outside of the Train Station

The Königsbau, Now a Mall, Was the Former Home to the Stuttgart Stock Exchange

das Neue Schloss (The New Castle), Home to Many Kings of Württemberg

The castle here is slightly different than before since Allied bombing during World War II destroyed just about the entire castle.

We pretty much wandered around town to see as many of the cool attractions as we could. Part II to come soon!