Gibraltar itself represents a geographical and political anomaly, a British Overseas Territory situated on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Morocco. As we drove closer, the landscape transformed completely, and soon we could see what defines the entire region: the Rock of Gibraltar towering massively above everything else, its limestone bulk rising over 400 metres above sea level.

First Glimpse: Europa Point and the Southern Edge

Our initial stop was Europa Point, the southernmost tip of Gibraltar, a flat, rocky headland that marks the boundary between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. The point gets its name from the mythological figure Europa.

Near Europa Point sits Gorham’s Cave Complex, a cluster of archaeological sites. The complex consists of caves situated at sea level, each containing archaeological and palaeontological deposits spanning over 100,000 years of Neanderthal occupation. In 2016, this site received UNESCO World Heritage status, earning its designation because of the exceptional evidence it holds about how Neanderthals lived. We tried making a spontaneous visit, only to be turned away as the site operates on an extremely restricted access system, with a three-year waiting list to gain entry for serious visitors. The limited access, while unfortunate for us, reflects the delicate nature of these sites, where any uncontrolled traffic would risk disturbing irreplaceable scientific evidence.

The Monkeys on the Mountain: Encounters with Barbary Macaques

As we ventured toward St Michael’s Cave, ascending the winding paths through the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, we began encountering the Rock’s most famous residents: the Barbary macaques. They represent Europe’s only free-living wild monkey population.

Tourists constantly attempted to feed them, despite clear warnings. The animals have learned to exploit this human generosity, demonstrating remarkable problem-solving by unzipping bags and rifling through pockets in search of food.

The Cathedral Beneath the Rock: St Michael’s Cave

The path to St Michael’s Cave climbs steeply on a well-paved road for thirty minutes before reaching the entrance. Several lookout points along the way made the walk up less of a grind.

The cave system itself is a network of interconnected chambers carved over millions of years by rainwater slowly percolating through limestone. Today, the largest chamber functions as a space for hosted concerts, theatrical productions, and opera performances. The cave derives much of its visual drama from its extensive formations of stalactites and stalagmites – mineral-rich water dripping from the ceiling deposits layer upon layer of dissolved rock, gradually building downward from the roof while simultaneously building upward from the floor. Some stalactites hang like pale icicles; others have fused with stalagmites rising to meet them, creating continuous columns of mineral deposit.

The name derives from a similar grotto in Monte Gargano, Italy, where – according to Catholic tradition – the Archangel Michael made an appearance. This connection explains why the cave carries religious significance despite being fundamentally a geological formation rather than a sacred site in the traditional sense.

An installation called “The Awakening,” a light and sound show, transformed the cave into an additional cultural experience. Within this light installation appears an ethereal figure – an angel formed by the projection mapping technology and the natural rock formations.

A Short Stay

Despite the natural and historical richness of what Gibraltar offers, we didn’t linger longer than a few hours. Tourism in Gibraltar often works this way – the territory is small, and its main attractions cluster around the Rock. Many visitors arrive on day trips from southern Spain, explore the key sites, and then depart. We were no different. We faced a 4.5-hour drive toward Granada, leaving Gibraltar behind and transitioning into the landscapes of inland Andalusia.

See more of Gibraltar here

When Mother Nature Changes the Itinerary

Our Antarctic expedition came to a slightly premature end as the weather took a turn for the worse. Throughout our journey, the expedition crew had repeatedly mentioned their multiple contingency plans—Plan A, B, C, D, and so on – and up until the final days, we had been fortunate enough to stick with Plan A. However, our luck eventually ran out.

The captain informed us that another cruise ship operating in the area was already heading back across the Drake Passage and experiencing exceptionally rough waters. With conditions deteriorating rapidly, the crew made the difficult decision to cancel the final day of our expedition, and head back to Ushuaia a day early.

Time for the Drake Shake

We were lucky enough to get the Drake Lake on the way there, but now it was time for the Drake Shake. We felt quite disappointed initially about missing our last day in Antarctica. However, as we began our journey back through the Drake Passage, we quickly understood the wisdom behind the crew’s decision.

Crossing the Drake Passage meant traversing approximately 700 nautical miles (~1,296 km) of open ocean. We encountered winds of 60 knots (approximately 111 km/h) and waves reaching heights of 9 metres according to windy.com. These conditions were so severe that the ship’s pool and hot tubs were closed.

The waves grew so intense that during lunch, we heard crashing sounds from the kitchen, followed by an announcement that they needed to remake all our meals. The staff didn’t even bother taking drink orders, as there was no hope of keeping anything on the tables. Walking anywhere in a straight line became impossible – it felt like spending two straight days on a perpetual pirate ship ride. Even in our sleep we tumbled around.

The crew was having trouble with seasickness too, but unlike us, they had to work. The expedition crew were scared that the waves would get worse had we stayed the extra day. Fortunately, we had taken precautions by starting seasickness medication before entering the Drake Passage.

Significance of Nautical Miles

Despite the rough waters, the crew made sure we stayed entertained. They organized various games, with each department hosting different activities. The food and beverage team challenged us to guess the price of wines and identify spices by taste. One activity was a navigational challenge.

We had to predict our future position based on speed and heading. Our original location was marked on a paper map, and we were told our speed and heading, and had to predict where we would be 5 hours from now and that value would be compared with the crew’s estimate. After I asked some clarifying questions, he explained that our heading had already accounted for wind, since it was possible the desired heading might not be the same as the actual heading.

The thing is he told me our speed in knots. How fast is a knot? Apparently it’s one nautical mile an hour. Okay how far is one nautical mile? The answer: longitude and latitude lines divide Earth into 180 degrees between each hemisphere (with 360 degrees around the circumference), with each degree divided into 60 minutes. The length of each minute along the earth’s curvature is equal to one nautical mile – by extension each degree is 60 nautical miles long. The whole cruise (and any cruise for that matter), the crew would always cite distances in nautical miles and speeds in knots, and now it makes sense.

So to predict the future position, it was a matter of knowing how many nautical miles we’d have traveled after 5 hours, convert that to lat/long and mark it on the map. The crew member thought my guess was “pretty good”, but I could have done better I was more careful with the ruler.

Winning at Trivia (A Little Too Often)

Throughout the cruise, the ship hosted trivia games. We did better than expected in our first game, and apparently another team noticed, and they recruited us into their team (the cleverly named “Kriller Instincts”). And, by sheer luck, they were really strong too, and together we won about half the games we played. With each repeat win, the more we would hear other regular trivia goers tease, “oh them again?” – only because there were prizes involved! We won hats, luggage cubes, but best of all on the last day, we won penguin plushies! Later, we traded a penguin for a polar bear.

One of the questions they asked was what the garnish was in a Gibson Martini (hint not an olive) – the answer was pearl onions. I got curious so I ordered one at the bar as part of my daily cruise routine of trying a different drink each time.

When I ordered it, it took them a while to make it. To my amusement it was because they had to get pearl onions from the galley. The onions in the drink – not good – now we know why the bar didn’t have pearl onions.

Caviar Party

Eventually some time on the second day of crossing the Drake Passage as we got nearer to Argentina, the water calmed. The ship hosted a caviar party, serving the delicacy on crackers. This was really cool – I knew I was on a luxury cruise, but I didn’t think we’d get caviar! We did get to try some during our earlier meals, but they were garnishes on some meals, as opposed to the quantity being served on each cracker.

One of the earlier trivia questions asked what material a spoon must use for serving caviar, and the answer mother of pearl (makes up the inner layer of oyster shells). It’s used because it does not affect the flavour of caviar like a metal spoon would. I asked them about the spoon, and indeed it was made of mother of pearl.

Our cruise lasted almost two weeks, and I wondered how they were able to prepare fresh food the whole time. Other cruises are able to stop at ports and reload supplies, but our ship needed to bring all of its supplies from the beginning. I couldn’t find any decisive information on this, but I suspect they do a combination of using fridges that they only open infrequently, and use vegetables with longer shelf lives.

No Refueling at Sea

Not only do they have to bring all the food with them from the beginning, they have to bring the fuel too. Earlier on the trip, the captain had explained to me that the ship still runs on fossile fuels, despite our best efforts in trying to keep the Antarctic environment as pristine as possible. I figured it wouldn’t be anything electric or solar – that tech isn’t ready for cruise ships yet – so it had to be some sort of fossil fuel.

Not only was the fuel used to cross the sea, the ship also used fuel to maintain its position while we went out on our excursions. Traditional vessels can drop anchor to stay in one spot, but this ship used GPS to monitor its position and used its propellers to counter the water current to keep the ship in place. Not having to drop an anchor prevents damage to the reefs growing on the sea floor.

An Extra Day in Ushuaia

Finally, we arrived back in Ushuaia. We had the option of spending the day in Ushuaia, but we quickly discovered that Ushuaia offered limited activities. Though, there were a few tours to nearby islands for penguin watching, but we already experienced something far richer than that.

We took a brief walk around the town, which lasted about an hour before we returned to the ship. To us, Ushuaia’s primary purpose seemed to be serving as a transit point for Antarctic expeditions. But for the Argentinian government, they maintained a military presence in the area – perhaps a way to get ready to enforce their continued claims on the Falkland Islands.

The People Who Made Our Journey Special

One of the highlights of our expedition was the diverse group of people we met. Everyone seemed eager to chat, and the shared experience of such an extraordinary adventure created an atmosphere of camaraderie, especially with our trivia team with whom we won so much.

The staff also got to know us well, and although for them it was simply their job, they consistently went beyond basic service.

One staff member, who served us in our frequent visits to the sushi bar, created a latte with “sushi” written in the foam as a special touch. These small gestures made us feel that they genuinely cared about our experience.

A Different Kind of Travel

This journey showed us that travel doesn’t always need to centre around visiting cities. There’s an incredible world of natural wonders waiting to be explored in remote locations. Talking with fellow passengers, they introduced us to ideas for future trips, such as the Northwest Passage, the Amazon Rainforest, the Galápagos Islands, Polynesian island-hopping cruises, and Serengeti National Park, among others.

People sometimes refer to Antarctica as the “madhouse at the end of the world,” and after experiencing its brutal conditions both on the water and on the continent, I understand why. What we endured clearly is only a small fraction of what the early explorers faced – like Shackleton, whose expedition was stranded in the Antarctic for over a year.

The expedition drew a fascinating mix of travellers, including an elderly man with a cane who insisted on going ashore. Despite the rocky beaches, the expedition crew assisted him each time, ensuring he could step foot on Antarctica.

The next morning after our day in Ushuaia, we boarded flights back to Buenos Aires. As our cruise came to an end, we exchanged hugs, handshakes, and contact information with our new friends. The farewells were bittersweet.

Antarctica remains a place of pristine beauty and remarkable wildlife, and I’m grateful to be fortunate enough to visit it. Even with modern expedition ships, specialized clothing, and experienced guides, the White Continent remains fundamentally untamed – a place where humans are always guests, never masters.

Waitomo Ruakuri Cave is a remarkable underground world filled with stunning rock formations and bioluminescent creatures. Waitomo Caves offer various tour options, including adventurous ones where visitors can go tubing through underground waterways and waterfalls. We opted for the dry tour at the Ruakuri Cave, which still provided an impressive cave experience without getting wet. The name Te Ruakuri, translates to “The Den of Dogs” (by the local hapū), and refers the surrounding area when wild dogs were discovered at the cave entrance.

Stalactites hung from the ceiling like icicles frozen in time, while stalagmites reached up from the cave floor.

Some formations resembled delicate curtains, while others took on a broccoli-like appearance. We were insructed not to touch the rocks as the oils on our skin could obstruct the flow of water and impact the erosion process.

Adding to the cave’s geological interest, some sections of the rock still contain visible fossils, offering glimpses into the area’s ancient past.

Glowworms inhabit parts of the cave. These fascinating creatures, actually the larvae of a type of fungus gnat, create a display with their bioluminescent glow. The glowworms use this light to attract prey, creating sticky threads of saliva that hang down like a spider’s web to catch small insects. The guide instructed us to cover our mouths because the force of our breath could tangle up the saliva strands, negatively impacting their ability to feed. One of them was even in a cocoon.

The life cycle of these glowworms is quite remarkable. Before entering their pupal stage, glowworm larvae only need a couple of bugs throughout the several months as a larva. After pupation, the adult glowworm emerges but lives for only a few days, during which time it mates and lays eggs to continue the cycle.

The cave’s delicate ecosystem has been impacted by human activity. In the early 20th century, visitors were allowed to take pieces of stalactites home as souvenirs. This practice has since been banned, as it takes an exceptionally long time—approximately 100 years—for just one centimetre of these rock formations to grow.

Te Puia: Geothermal Wonders and Maori Culture

Te Puia, a geothermal park in Rotorua that offers a blend of natural wonders and Maori cultural experiences. Owned and operated by Maori people, Te Puia serves as both a tourist attraction and a school for preserving and teaching Maori arts and culture.

Here, students learn traditional Maori arts such as wood carving, which played a crucial role in preserving Maori history before the introduction of written language. Students don’t pay to attend the school, but the work they produce becomes the property of the school. The intricate carvings and tattoos served as a means of storytelling and passing down cultural knowledge through generations. The school at Te Puia has faced challenges due to the COVID-19 pandemic. With international travel still recovering, some classrooms have had to close temporarily. However, the revenue generated from visitor entrance fees continues to fund the school’s important work in preserving Maori culture.

The geothermal area of Te Puia spans approximately 60 hectares, featuring an array of impressive geysers. While several geysers erupt at various intervals throughout the park, the largest geyser typically erupts once or twice an hour. We didn’t witness this display during our visit though. An interesting aspect of Te Puia is that local Maori tribes still reside in the area and have the unique privilege of freely accessing the geothermal areas. Visitors, on the other hand, must adhere to safety regulations due to the potential dangers associated with the geothermal activity.

Scenic Drive Through New Zealand’s Countryside

Between our cave and geothermal adventures, we had the pleasure of driving through New Zealand’s picturesque countryside. The landscape unfolded before us in a series of rolling hills, creating a patchwork of green pastures that stretched as far as the eye could see.

The countryside is home to vast numbers of sheep and cows, which dot the hillsides and valleys. Whenever we stopped at vista points, the cows would turn their heads and stare at us with what seemed like genuine curiosity.

Check out more of Waitomo Ruakuri Caves and Te Puia Geothermal Park!

The city of Cairns itself seems to be dominated by the tourism industry. Probably everybody is here to visit these two places. Buskers were present in the streets juggling fiery torches, or doing the statue routine.

The Great Barrier Reef

Our journey began with a snorkelling tour to the Great Barrier Reef in the Coral Sea with Passions of Paradise. After a two-hour boat ride to Hastings Reef within the GBR, we were grateful for the seasickness pills provided, which kept nausea at bay. The day was pleasantly warm, with temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius, providing comfortable conditions above water. However, as we prepared to enter the water, we found that even with wetsuits on, the ocean felt surprisingly cold. The tour catered to all skill levels, from non-swimmers to experienced scuba divers, ensuring everyone could enjoy the underwater spectacle.

The reef revealed an underwater world. Colourful coral formations stretched as far as the eye could see, home to a diverse array of marine life. We felt fortunate to visit the Great Barrier Reef at this time, aware that climate change poses a significant threat to this delicate ecosystem. We spotted several species of coral, which I think included staghorn coral, brain coral, and acropora (but I’m no expert).

Schools of fish darted around us, including the iconic clownfish, which we were surprised to find were much smaller than expected (the movie Finding Nemo makes them seem so much larger). These iconic fish, have a symbiotic relationship with their host anemones, and rare venture more than a few metres away.

Other marine creatures we encountered included starfish, and a sea cucumber. The highlight was spotting a giant clam, its massive shell partially open, revealing the colourful mantle within. The mantle is the fleshy, visible part of the clam when its shell is open, and often has a blue-green coloration, which are due to symbiotic algae living in their tissues. The presence of a giant clam is an indicator of a healthy reef ecosystem, as these animals are sensitive to changes in water quality and temperature.

The Daintree Rainforest

The next day, we continued with a trip on the Kuranda Skyrail, a series of gondolas that provide a bird’s-eye view of the Daintree Rainforest canopy. This ancient rainforest is estimated to be over 180 million years old, making it one of the oldest continuous tropical rainforests in the world. The Coral Sea to the north provides abundant moisture, while the Great Dividing Range mountains to the south force air to rise, cool, and condense into rainfall to support the lush tropical rainforests.

Our guide shared insights about the forest’s ecology. The rainforest canopy is so dense that it creates a challenging environment for new trees to grow in the understory. Saplings must wait for larger trees to fall before they can access enough sunlight to thrive, a process that can take decades. We also learned about the cassowary, a flightless bird that resembles a modern-day dinosaur. Too bad we didn’t spot one though, but there was a life sized model for us to see.

One of the most intriguing plants we observed was the basket fern. This epiphytic fern grows high up on tree trunks and branches, forming a nest-like structure that collects falling leaves and debris. The decaying matter provides nutrients for the fern, allowing it to thrive without soil. Another fascinating plant was the wait-a-while vine. This climbing palm has long, flexible stems covered in sharp, backwards-facing spines. These barbs allow the vine to hook onto surrounding vegetation as it grows, eventually reaching the canopy where it can access more sunlight. Eventually it might even strangle a taller tree to death. The guide also introduced us to the powder-puff tree, an plant known for its striking red, fuzzy, spiky ball-like flowers, which attracts various pollinators, making it a vital part of the ecosystem. I was really impressed at how different plants took over different biological niches.

Kuranda Koala Gardens

Our rainforest adventure was complemented by a visit to the Kuranda Koala Gardens, where we had the opportunity to see Australia’s iconic marsupials up close. We were surprised to learn that their fur isn’t uniformly grey – their butts are actually a light beige colour.

The gardens also housed other Australian wildlife, including crocodiles, kangaroos, and wallabies. We spotted a charming little yellow bird in a hanging nest (olive sunbird). Outside the gardens, we also saw a ulysses butterfly. Despite what all the pictures show, they actually have wings that are blue on one side and brown on the other.

Culinary Adventures

Our culinary experiences in Cairns were all hits except for one disappointing skewer meal that left much to be desired, with oddly mushy grilled corn. However, we also enjoyed some exceptional dining experiences.

At the Ochre on the Esplanade, we sampled some unique Australian meats. From the left to right, the emu in the emu wonton was dark and rich, reminiscent of beef but with a gamier taste. Next was the kangaroo, but it wasn’t as good as the one in Sydney. The crocodile meat on the other hand was lean and had a texture similar to chicken, with a slightly fishy flavour. The last item was the usual smoked salmon.

One of our most memorable meals was at Salt House, where we dined while watching the sun set over the water. We enjoyed succulent scallops and barramundi.

The highlight of the meal was the MB4+ Black Onyx Grain Fed Scotch Fillet. MB4+ refers to the marbling score of a steak used in Australia beef grading systems and goes from 1 to 9, with 9 being the best. A scotch fillet is essentially the same cut as a ribeye steak, coming from the rib section of the cow. However, while a ribeye typically includes the cap (or spinalis dorsi muscle), a scotch fillet often has this removed. It’s similar to the French entrecôte, though the exact cut can vary slightly. Despite a marbling score of 4/9, the marbling on this particular steak still tasted excellent, resulting in a flavourful and tender dining experience that would be hard to match at a similar price point elsewhere.

Our time in Cairns offered a nice blend of natural wonders and culinary discoveries. From the underwater marvels of the Great Barrier Reef to the ancient beauty of the Daintree Rainforest, and from cuddly koalas to unique Australian cuisine, Cairns provided an awesome experience of Australia’s tropical north.

Check here to see more of Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef, and the Kuranda Skyrail

Driving on the “Wrong” Side of the Road

Our journey began with renting a car in Sydney. It had been over ten years since my last experience driving on the left in the UK. As someone accustomed to driving on the right side of the road, I was excited to try it again, and now with more driving experience under my belt, I felt more confident in my abilities. That’s not to say it was totally smooth. The blinkers being on the opposite side of the steering wheel led to a few accidental activations of the windshield wipers. Gauging space around the car was a little more difficult too, and it took me some time to get used to centering myself in the lane.

A Bird’s Eye View

Upon arriving at Scenic World, I was immediately struck by its similarity to the Sea to Sky Gondola in Vancouver. Both attractions offer visitors the chance to ascend a mountain by gondola and explore the surrounding forests and vistas from above.

The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly the gondola ride across the Jamison Valley. As we glided over the treetops, we were treated to a spectacular view of Katoomba Falls cascading down the cliff face.

The Three Sisters, an iconic rock formation that has become synonymous with the Blue Mountains, stood majestically in the distance, their weathered sandstone faces a testament to millions of years of erosion.

Descending into the Valley

One of Scenic World’s unique attractions is its railway – but this is no ordinary train ride. Descending at a 45-degree angle, this former coal mining railway is now used to take visitors down to the valley floor.

It feels like sitting in a rollercoaster, but it descends at a piece that would cause a bit of uneasiness. As we headed down into the lush Jamison Valley, the steepness of the descent provided a thrilling experience that was both exhilarating and slightly unnerving.

Exploring the Valley Floor

Once at the bottom, we took the opportunity to explore the valley floor on foot.

The ancient forest, with its towering eucalyptus trees and diverse understory of ferns and wildflowers, provided a stark contrast to the expansive views we had experienced from above.

A Race Against Time

When our day started, the car rental agent advised us to return the car by 4pm as the location did not support after-hours returns. We left razor thin margins for our drive back and found ourselves racing through the streets of Sydney, navigating unfamiliar roads while driving on the opposite side. We pulled into the rental car parking lot at exactly 4pm.

Initially, the rental agent was hesitant to accept the car, as we weren’t at the counter precisely at closing time. However, after some discussion, he graciously allowed us to return the vehicle. This last-minute dash added an unexpected element of excitement to our day, capping off our Blue Mountains adventure with a final burst of adrenaline.

See more of the Scenic World in the Blue Mountains National Park here