We approached this visit with some trepidation, having read about Argentina’s hyperinflation and concerns about safety. However, with careful research and by sticking to the recommended neighbourhoods. We remained cautious, keeping our belongings close and avoiding overly crowded areas.

Our first challenge was getting an Uber. The first driver refused to take us because he wanted cash under the table, a common issue in Argentina due to the preference for cash transactions. Our second driver was much more accommodating and even pointed out landmarks as we drove past.

Exploring Recoleta

Our exploration took us through several distinct neighbourhoods, beginning with Recoleta. We passed by the Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar, a church built in 1732 that stands as the second oldest in Buenos Aires.

Next to the church, La Recoleta Cemetery ranks among the most famous burial grounds in the world. This city of the dead contains over 4600 vaults, many decorated with elaborate statues and intricate marble carvings. Perhaps its most famous resident is Eva Perón, the former First Lady of Argentina who was a powerful political figure and advocate for women’s suffrage and labour rights. Known affectionately as “Evita,” she became a cultural icon whose life inspired books, films, and a famous musical. Despite her enormous popularity among working-class Argentinians, her tomb remains relatively modest compared to the grandiose mausoleums surrounding it.

In the nearby Recoleta Garden, we came across an interesting sight – a massive tree growing on a concrete platform.

Continuing our walk, we came upon the Floralis Genérica, a massive stainless steel flower sculpture. Created by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano and installed in 2002, this mechanical flower actually opens its petals each morning and closes them at sunset, mimicking the behaviour of a real flower symbolizing hope and rebirth.

We passed through a series of public parks where we saw people weightlifting in open spaces. It was interesting to see that people felt safe enough to bring heavy equipment like barbells and weights to exercise outdoors. This outdoor fitness culture suggested we were indeed in a safer area of the city.

Nearer to our hotel, we visited El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a former theatre that has been converted into one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Originally opened in 1919 as a theatre, the venue still retains its ornate ceiling frescoes, balconies, and stage. The theatre boxes now serve as intimate reading nooks, while the former stage houses a café.

Our walk in Recoleta offered a nice introduction to Buenos Aires, showcasing the neighbourhood’s blend of historical significance, architectural beauty, and modern urban life. Despite our initial safety concerns, we found Recoleta to be not only secure but genuinely welcoming, allowing us to relax and fully appreciate its considerable charms.

A Steakhouse Experience at La Cabrera

For our first dinner in Buenos Aires, we visited the renowned La Cabrera steakhouse. With our reservation at 20:30 – considered “early” by local standards – we were introduced to the Argentine custom of late dining. The steak arrived with a charred exterior and a tender, juicy centre. It arrived with a selection of dipping sauces, which are a staple in Argentinian cuisine. These included chimichurri (a tangy mix of parsley, garlic, vinegar, and oil), and mustard-based sauces.

One downside of the dining experience was the unexpected charges. Servers would present items as complimentary, but they’d end up on the bill after. We could have made a fuss, but we decided to let it go – it’s always harder in a foreign country with a language we don’t speak and without knowing the local customs. Despite this, the meal was still reasonably priced, especially considering the exchange rate.

Roux from the Michelin Guide

For lunch, we ate at Roux, a Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant (different from Michelin Star – the star would have reflected an even greater quality). The meal began with a “complimentary” foie gras, gazpacho, and deep-fried cod croquettes. Remembering our experience at La Cabrera, we were wary of additional charges, but this time we actually wanted these.

The adventurous highlight of our meal was llama carpaccio from the Jujuy Province with a cherry tomato vinaigrette, capers and caperberries from “La Chacrita”. Llama meat has a mild, slightly gamey flavour.

We also tried Jugoso Bife Black Angus Azul Natural Beef, served with potato, roasted red peppers, truffle air, and its own juices. The beef was rich and tender, with the truffle adding depth to the dish. While Roux delivered a refined dining experience with well-executed dishes and thoughtful presentation, we found that the flavors, while excellent, didn’t quite surpass the bold, hearty appeal of La Cabrera.

Dessert was flan-like cake with vanilla ice cream and dulce de leche. Dulce de leche is a staple in Argentina, found in everything from pastries to ice cream. It is a caramel-like confection made by slowly heating sweetened milk, which we noticed featured prominently throughout Buenos Aires.

An interesting thing to mention here is that even for an upscale restaurant here, the staff still did not speak much English. I did my best with the handful of Spanish words that I knew to get by. I would have thought that these establishments would have decent English, but they didn’t.

Landmarks in El Centro

Later, we walked around El Centro, which felt noticeably less safe than Recoleta with larger crowds and “shady” individuals sleeping/walking about. Nevertheless, we visited Teatro Colón, Argentina’s premier opera house. Opened in 1908, it is regarded as one of the best concert venues in the world due to its exceptional acoustics and grand architecture.

We also saw the Obelisk of Buenos Aires, a 67-metre-tall monument commemorating the 400th anniversary of the city’s founding. Located in the middle of a major intersection, it serves as one of Buenos Aires’ most recognizable landmarks.

Our walk to Mall Pacifico was uncomfortable, as we were repeatedly approached by money changers shouting “cambio.” Our fatigue set in at a good time when we had to go to the airport, for our final journey home.

The Final End of a Long Journey

Our Buenos Aires visit concluded what had been a remarkable expedition to Antarctica. The journey there involved two days of flying to Buenos Aires, one day of flying to Ushuaia, and two days crossing the Drake Passage. We’ve already done the three days coming back to Buenos Aires, and now we’ll do another two days on the plane back home.

As a day trip from Lisbon, we visited nearby municipality of Belém. It is located on the western side of the city and is home to several iconic landmarks. This post will feature the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries), the Tower of Belém, and the Jerónimos Monastery.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries)

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos was erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, who is widely regarded as the patron of the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The monument is a striking representation of the spirit of exploration and adventure that characterized this era of Portuguese history.

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos is shaped like a ship’s bow, pointing towards the sea, and is adorned with statues of important figures from Portugal’s Age of Discovery, including Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, and Ferdinand Magellan. The monument also features intricate carvings and reliefs that depict scenes from Portugal’s maritime history and its voyages of discovery.

Tower of Belém

The Tower of Belém is a 16th-century fortification built to protect the harbour and to commemorate Portugal’s Age of Discovery and is now considered one of the most important examples of Manueline architecture, which is characterized by the use of intricate carvings and decorative elements, including armillary spheres, and ropes and knots, all of which are symbols of Portugal’s maritime heritage. The tower is also adorned with battlements that once housed weapons to defend the harbour.

Today, the Tower of Belém is a museum that showcases Portugal’s maritime history and the discoveries of its explorers. It is also a UNESCO Wolrd Heritage Site.

Despite going during the low tourist season, it was still almost a two-hour wait to get inside the tower. It’s not so large inside, and so they must control the traffic. The inside is not as beautiful as the outside since the ornate decorations are on the outside as opposed to the inside. The stone rooms are otherwise rather plain. Knowing what I know now, I don’t think it’s worth the wait to go inside.

Jerónimos Monastery

Another notable landmark in Belém is the Jerónimos Monastery, a stunning Manueline-style building that was constructed in the 16th century to commemorate the voyages of discovery of Portuguese explorers. The monastery is considered one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture and is now a museum that showcases the history of Portugal and its explorers.

Knowing what I know now, I would have much rather visited the monastery as opposed to the Tower of Belém.

Pastéis de Belém

Belém is also famous for its gastronomic culture and is known for its traditional Pastéis de Belém. They pretty much look exactly the same to Pastéis de Nata. They both have a delicate, flaky texture with rich, sweet filling. They are a traditional treat that originated in the Belém neighborhood of Lisbon, Portugal and have been enjoyed by locals and visitors alike for over 200 years.

They’re small, round pastries that are filled with a creamy custard-like filling made from eggs, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest. The pastry dough is crisp and flaky, and it is usually sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar before serving.

More photos of Belém here

A walking tour through Lisbon’s streets and squares offers a unique and intimate look at the city, allowing oneto soak up its history, culture, and atmosphere. In this post, I’ll take you through a walking tour of downtown Lisbon, highlighting some of the city’s sights.

Praça do Comércio

Praça do Comércio is one of the largest city squares., and is a popular destination for visitors. The square is surrounded by beautiful buildings, including the elegant Arco da Rua Augusta and the magnificent Palácio dos Condes de Calheta. There are also a variety of bustling cafes and restaurants that line the square

The Praça do Comércio also faces the Tagus river. The river is a key feature of the city’s landscape and has played a significant role in the city’s history and development. The 25 de Abril Bridge spans the river and is painted in the same orange colour as the Golden Gate Bridge, and has a similar design to the Bay Bridge in San Francisco.

Seafood culture

Portugal is proud of its seafood culture, with a long history of fishing and coastal communities that have helped shape the country’s culinary traditions. It is an integral part of daily life for many Portuguese people. Restaurants everywhere serve a variety of seafood dishes.

We were able to go to a nice seafood buffet at the Praça do Comércio at a placed called Baía do Peixe. One of the items on the seafood platter was a gooseneck barnacle (left hand side in the picture). We’d never seen that before and had to ask the owner how to peel them – the shell is soft enough to be separated from the meat with just the fingernails. The owner himself was super nice and chatted with us about how he used to work at a Cantonese restaurant and showed off a few phrases to us too.

A far far less spectacular meal, at a place I absolutely do not recommend is at Cervejaria Ramiro. We had a bout of food poisoning with a fever too. Two of our friends recommended this place to us too. While the place had a lot of good reviews, we found out later that a lot of recent reviews also talked about food poisoning. The oysters tasted salty as if from added salt as opposed to the natural ocean, and the shrimps were rubbery from being overcooked and only had very simple seasonings of butter and salt.

Despite the seafood culture, it’s too bad we had this experience. It’s been pretty rare for me to *not* like the food of a place I travel to. There’s a stereotype that British people have bad food, but maybe they’ve got competition now.

Castelo de São Jorge

Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle), is a castle situated on a hilltop overlooking the city. The castle dates back to the Moorish period and has played a key role in the city’s history, serving as a royal palace, a military stronghold, and a prison over the centuries.

The castle’s ramparts offer a perfect place to take in the panoramic views of Lisbon and its surroundings, including the River Tejo and the old city center. At the time, it looked like a fire was happening. We saw puffs of smoke coming out and heard sirens down below

We got to tour its museums and exhibitions, explore its ramparts and gardens, and admire its architecture. The gardens are also a habitant for peacocks, and can be seen around the premises. What I didn’t know is that they can fly a bit, and we saw several of them high up in the trees

Alfama District

One of the first things that visitors to Lisbon will notice is its hilly terrain, with narrow cobblestone streets and historic buildings that seem to spill down the hillsides, especially in the Alfama District. The district is also where the Castelo de Sao Jorge is located. Another neighbourhood to visit is also the Bairro Alto.

Time Out Market

The Time Out Market is where we went after waking up super late after a late night of New Year’s festivities. The Time Out Market is a bustling food hall featuring a diverse selection of local and international cuisine, from traditional Portuguese dishes including some fusion creations. Time Out Market offers visitors a taste of Lisbon’s food scene.

Like much of Lisbon, it’s pretty easy to find Pastéis de Natas. It’s a sweet, flaky pastry is filled with a creamy, egg-based custard that is lightly dusted with cinnamon and powered sugar. The one at the Time Out Market was pretty good, but the best one is still the one from Fábrica da Nata. We also tried a tasting of several different kinds of small plates, but they tasted OK and weren’t too memorable

LX Factory

LX Factory is kind of a hipster market. It offers a diverse range of Portuguese and international cuisine, and has a lively atmosphere, and has a range of stalls selling artisanal products, such as jewelry, clothing, and souvenirs. It’s a place to wander and soak up the atmosphere, as well as grab a bite to eat, though a lot of it is catered to tourists. In particular, there was a really good chocolate place there called Landeau Chocolate, and a health food chain called Oakberry that sold really delicious acai bowls/smoothies (they even have a presence in North America)

Rossio Square

Rossio Square is one of the city squares that are hard to miss when walking around Lisbon. It’s a historic square, that is surrounded by cafes, historic buildings, and tourist shops. The square is also home to the national theatre.

Sardines

Portuguese sardines are an iconic dish. These small, oily fish are usually grilled or fried and served as a snack, main course, or as part of a larger dish. They’re a staple at outdoor barbecues and markets. We got to try some of these in various foods while we were here, but I didn’t think they were that out of the ordinary. I actually really like sardines – especially the ones from Costco that are seasoned and canned in olive oil and I thought those were better than the ones I got to try here. It’s too bad they couldn’t even get sardines right…

Wonderland Lisboa

Wonderland Lisboa is the local Christmas market. We didn’t plan on going here, but rather we just stumbled upon it in our walk around town. Vendors set up stalls selling handcrafted gifts, seasonal foods, and hot spiced wine.

They even set up a skating rink, but since it’s Portugal, people didn’t really know how to skate and it was funny watching them struggle.

The worst thing about Lisbon

Petty theft, such as pickpocketing and purse snatching, is unfortunately an issue in tourist areas of Lisbon, like any other major city. We happened to stay near the neighbourhood of Martim Moniz and in the city square we a lot of people just hanging out on the side of the street not really doing much, which didn’t give us a good feeling. It’s too bad that the story of Martim Moniz is that he’s legendary knight, who is said to have defended the city during the Siege of Lisbon in 1147. I feel like what it looks like today ruins that legacy.

The streets in Lisbon unfortunately are also not well maintained, with cobblestones frequently falling out of the sidewalk. Ina lot places, the streets in general look grungy. Probably years ago when Lisbon was less popular as a tourist city, it wasn’t like that, but now it’s also attracted a lot of foreigners who are here pushing their gimmicky trinkets or fake designer bags. A guy even tried to sell me marijuana *while* I was at the ATM. First of all, it’s super not cool to talk to anybody while they’re actively using the ATM. I was totally on edge expecting a thief or something. And then when I finished and starting walking away, he tried to hassle me again.

This and getting sick from the food definitely made Lisbon a worse experience than it should have been. But still between that and the things we did, we still got to experience it.

See more photos of Lisbon here

As the final day of 2022 came to a close, we took a trip to Portugal. We found ourselves in the heart of Lisbon, looking to experience the local New Year’s Eve festivities. The city was alive with excitement and anticipation, as locals and visitors alike gathered to ring in the new year.

We started our evening at Rossio Square, where large crowds had already begun to gather. We meandered through the city streets, eating Pastéis de Natas, a sweet, flaky pastry is filled with a creamy, egg-based custard that is lightly dusted with cinnamon and powered sugar. I can still feel that crunch in my head when I think about it. The best one we had was from here

We also got to try Pastel de Bacalhau, a dish that combines the salty flavor of bacalhau with a crispy, flaky pastry crust. It is typically made with shredded salted cod, onions, and potatoes, and is often served as a snack or appetizer.

Along the walk, we encountered a café with a sign that probably would have gotten a lot of angry complaints where I live. Or maybe I’m just “woke”

The shop itself actually sells coffee beans and tea leaves in additional to other local souvenirs. Nothing wrong with that – it’s just the sign.

Lisbon was quite alive with twinkling lights and festive decorations. The streets and squares are lit up with colorful displays. In addition to the lights and fireworks, Lisbon during New Year’s Eve is also a time for celebration, with parties and events taking place all across the city.

To add onto the New Year’s festivities, the city set up stands where people could just buy a beer and drink it as they walked around. If people in North America were more responsible with their alcohol, this could work too

For dinner, we ate at a place serving paellas, both in the Portuguese and Spanish style (with port wine of course). Paella has a rich and savory flavor that is characterized by the seafood, meats, and vegetables that bring depth and richness to the dish. The perfectly cooked rice, which should be tender yet not mushy, adds a creamy texture to the dish.

As we waited, a gentleman working there chatted with us to help us pass the time as we waited. One thing we immediately noticed is that a lot of the restaurants in the area were purely there to serve tourists. The restaurant itself was run by Nepali immigrants (they couldn’t even tell us how to say “happy new year” in Portuguese). Still, the food was pretty good – there was even another couple who came back the next day.

Eventually we reached the Praça do Comércio. The crowds were so large it became impossible to actually get into the plaza. Not wanting to fight the crowd, we turned back. It was ripe for pickpockets to do their work. Instead we walked around the town looking for a good angle to see the New Year’s fireworks

The streets were filled with the sounds of music, and laughter, as revelers counted down to the new year. At midnight, the sky exploded with a dazzling display of lights and color, as the city celebrated the arrival of the new year. The sky lit up and and the air was filled with cheers and applause.

More photos of Portugal