Returning to the vibrant city of Berlin, I embarked on a journey filled with intriguing sites, delicious flavors, and profound moments. As I wandered through the streets, I encountered both familiar landmarks and new experiences.

It’s well known that Germany has a large Turkish population, and as a result, Turkish food is prevalent across the country, especially the döner kebab. We stumbled upon TERAS Berlin and I can safely say it’s the best döner I’ve had. There is even a framed photo of Angela Merkel eating their döners!

We walked around the city, and eventually made our way to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Somehow the irregular placement of each concrete block gives the whole area an eerie feeling – something just doesn’t feel right, which is pretty apt for the purpose of the memorial.

Not far from memorial, there is a sign indicating the location of where Hitler’s bunker used to be. Nothing of the old bunker remains and the area is now apartment blocks and parking lots. If it weren’t for the sign, people would have forgotten all about it.

Later, we got a drink at the Lindenbräu at the Sony Center. I’d been looking forward for a Bananenweizen since we arrived. It just didn’t hit the same as it did before. Maybe my taste buds are more picky now

The next day we took a tour of the Reichstag. The Reichstag is the seat of the German parliament, and it has been since the founding of the Germany as a country.

The dome at the top has since been rebuilt since the war. It’s replacement is a panoramic glass done that allows people to have a 360 degree view of the city. The glass represents the transparency in government.

When I first went to Berlin in 2011, I learned about the Ampelmann, the symbol used on pedestrian walking lights in East Berlin and other parts of former East Germany. I thought it was kind of a cool quirk of Berlin, but now its popularity has exploded. There’s almost always an Ampelmann shop in every tourist district.

We visited the Rausch Chocolatier near our hotel. I always thought it was a chocolate shop targeted at tourists. But now knowing more about chocolate and having a better palate, I found that they do in fact do chocolate well. They still make the typical sugary kind, but also the single origin stuff with specified percentages of cocoa.

Nearby was the Gendarmenmarkt, normally a picturesque square bustling with activity. However, it was under maintenance during my visit. I guess this is typical of travelling during low season (February in our case) – this is the time to do maintenance on stuff.

Later, we made our way to Checkpoint Charlie, a legendary checkpoint in Berlin’s history. It was once a border crossing between East and West Berlin. It stands as a symbol of the Cold War era and the division of the city. Today, a replica of the guardhouse and a sign mark the historical site, attracting visitors who seek to understand Berlin’s past. It serves as a poignant reminder of the struggles endured by those seeking freedom and reunification.

At Topography of Terror, we delved into the darker chapters of Berlin’s history, reflecting on the atrocities committed during the Nazi regime. It’s a free museum documenting the Nazi war crimes. The biggest surprise for me there was seeing so many of the perpetrators of the crimes either committed suicide or were handed short sentences, which felt like they were let off easy considering what they did.

In addition to finding the best döner, I’ve found the best currywurst – at Curry61. Currywurst is a beloved German street food delight. A juicy sausage is generously slathered with a zesty curry ketchup and sprinkled with aromatic curry powder. The result is a harmonious symphony of savory, tangy, and slightly spicy notes for the palate. Each bite of the sausage releases juices, mingling with the vibrant sauce to create an explosion of flavour.

In the rain, we visited the Berlin Wall Memorial. It stands as a reminder of the division that once existed. This solemn site encompasses preserved segments of the wall, offering a tangible connection to the past. As we walked along the memorial, we could see the stark contrast between the barren death strip and the vibrant cityscape beyond. People can still buy pieces of the Berlin Wall – apparently there was so much of the wall that they can sell these pieces for years.

Totally by chance, that morning, I saw a news post about a destroyed Russian tank parked in front of the Russian Embassy in Berlin – we had to see it. This bold and symbolic protest highlighted the ongoing tensions and conflicts surrounding the Ukraine War. It’s a brutal reminder to the Russians that what they were doing in Ukraine isn’t working. This showed me that visiting places isn’t just about the tourist attractions, but also the zeitgeist that influences them.

Another piece of the zeitgeist is seeing more and more electric car stores popping up everywhere – this time from a Chinese brand called Nio in the shopping district of Kurfürstendam. It feels as if tons of these companies are coming out of the woodwork now that Tesla is so big. It’s also one of the many luxury stores in the Kurfürstendam. The neighbourhood epitomizes the city’s cosmopolitan flair. Lined with luxury boutiques, trendy cafés, and bustling shops, it is a haven for shoppers and fashion enthusiasts.

By the end of the day, word had spread and now a giant crowd gathered around the destroyed tank in front of the Russian embassy. People all over the city came out to show their support of Ukraine.

The protest continued at Brandenburg Gate. By then a whole stage was set up with someone at the mic calling out for peace and justice. It was quite a sight to behold.

At that moment, it occurred to me that the Ukraine War is a lot closer to the people in Berlin than it is to people like us who live in North America.

On our last day, we visited Museum Island. Museum Island is a cultural treasure trove, a UNESCO World Heritage site that houses an extraordinary collection of museums and art galleries. From the impressive Pergamon Museum to the Neues Museum’s ancient Egyptian artifacts, each institution showcases a unique aspect of history, art, and culture.

Also on Museum Island is the Berlin Cathedral, a majestic architectural marvel. By random chance, entry that day was free. We got to see its magnificent domed structure, adorned with intricate details, as it dominates the city’s skyline. The cathedral’s significance extends beyond its religious importance, as it is also the dynastic tomb of the House of Hollenzollern, the former royal family of Germany. Unfortunately, the tomb was under renovation, so we could not visit it.

A short walk further, we reached Alexanderplatz, the bustling heart of Berlin. It’s a cool area showing the remnants of the former East Berlin, but otherwise, I didn’t find what was so enticing of a place to go except that it’s picturesque aside from visiting the Fernsehturm, which didn’t exactly align with my interests.

The East Side Gallery, a living testament to freedom and artistic expression, stretches along a remaining section of the Berlin Wall. This open-air gallery showcases a captivating collection of murals created by artists from around the world. Each artwork reflects the hopes, dreams, and struggles of a divided city and the triumph of unity. Originally, it was painted by artists after the opening of the Berlin Wall, but now different sections of the wall get routinely repainted to show the zeitgeist of our society.

Our last destination was Markthalle IX. This historic market hall has been transformed into a bustling food destination, where local vendors showcase their artisanal products and delights. While it had lots of stalls ranging from produce to specialty cheeses, baked goods, and international cuisines, it seemed to cater mostly to tourists (it’s also expensive). It was also super crowded and grungy and not exactly the type of place I wanted to be at.

See more of Berlin here

There’s a bit of nostalgia in returning to Munich, a place that I’d visited a few times before a long time ago when I did my internship in Germany. I eagerly anticipated revisiting some of my favourite spots while venturing into new experiences.

Seeing the Neues Rathaus on Marienplatz reminded me of my previous visits, from a time where I had visited few foreign countries, seeing the world with young, fresh eyes.

I got to experience again the outdoor beer gardens – a fundamental part of beer culture. I eagerly sought out the ambiance of these social hubs, rediscovering the familiar taste of German sausages and beer. Unfortunately, since it was winter, most of the beer garden was closed.

Nearby the beer garden was the Eisbach, Munich’s famous river wave in the English Garden. Standing on the riverbank, I marveled at the skill and courage of the surfers who rode the powerful current with grace and determination. They made it look easy.

I stumbled upon a Ukraine War protest during my visit, and it reminded me that the war is a lot closer to Germany than it is for us living in North America. This unexpected encounter allowed me to witness firsthand the power of peaceful activism and the unity of Munich’s community. It happened to occur on the same day as the Munich Security Conference, where world leaders met to continue discussions regarding the Ukraine War.

Walking through the opulent halls of the Munich Residenz was like revisiting a bygone era, and it was a place I’d never been before. The grandeur of its rooms, adorned with ornate decorations and priceless artwork, transported me to a time of royalty and elegance.

The Munich Residenz is the former royal palace of the Wittelsbach family that once ruled Bavaria. The Wittelsbach dynasty originated in the 11th century and ruled Bavaria for nearly 750 years until the end of the monarchy in 1918 after Germany’s defeat in World War I.

As usual, I had to eat a pork knuckle, and I think I’ve now found the best pork knuckle in town at the Augustiner brewery. I saw that they had many locations, but the one I went to is the one right outside the Frauenkirche. They had perfected the crispy crackling skin with tender meat underneath. I still think about this meal. I used to go to the Hofbräuhaus, but I couldn’t help but notice how it had degraded over time. While it still retained its lively atmosphere and historical significance, it had become somewhat commercialized, geared more towards tourists, and most importantly, the food was worse (or maybe my taste buds back then were less sophisticated). Nevertheless, I found solace in knowing that Munich’s culinary experiences could still be found in other traditional establishments.

Another highlight is that I finally was able to book a spot on the BMW factory tour. I had tried in the past, but never early enough to secure a spot. Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed to take any pictures. The tour goes through different parts of the car manufacturing process, e.g., the metal stamping, painting, and assembly. The process also shows how seamlessly robots and humans work together. It’s really cool to see robot arms putting a car together.

A friend of mine introduced to me the Schalznudeln, a pastry I’d never tried before. It’s essentially airy like a donut, and almost tastes like a beaver tail.

We just so happen to arrive on the last day of the Karneval. People were in the street drinking and dancing, local breweries set up shop in the main shopping street to sell beer, and people performed on stage. I’d always though the Karneval was a Cologne thing but clearly they celebrate it here too. It reminded me of the time I’d gone in 2011. It’s related to the Brazilian carnival and the American Mardi Gras – they’re all celebrating the same thing, just in their own way. The spectacle is cool, but the dark side of it is that people end up leaving lots of trash in the street. Luckily, by morning, the mess is cleaned up.

Returning to Munich was a bittersweet experience, as I rediscovered old favourites and uncovered new adventures. More photos of Munich here.

At Frankfurt Airport, when Edward and I lined up to check in, we were the only two Chinese people in line.  We seemed very out of place.  Some of the people gave us these stares that seemed to ask “why are you flying to Kiev?” We wanted to visit Chernobyl and shoot AK-47’s.

Our experience on the plane was dreadful.  Four crying babies/toddlers plus jet lag plus one hour delay was not a good combination. No sleep for me I guess.  Worst flight ever.

Awkward Car Ride

The hostel arranged transportation for us and so when we arrived, I looked for someone holding a sign with my name on it (first time ever!).  The driver was not happy at how we were late (not that we could do anything about it).

Probably since he was late, he drove like a maniac.  He drove way faster than the posted limits and passed every car on the highway.  The expected 45 min ride was reduced to almost 20 minutes.  The driver didn’t speak English.  No one said a word during the entire ride.  Awkward.

I had read before that people sometimes get driven to random places by taxi drivers before they get mugged.  By getting the hostel transportation, we minimized that risk.  Despite that, I was at peak alertness the whole time, making sure he was going the right general direction (I vaguely remembered the directions from the airport to the hostel).

Dream House Hostel

This is by far one of the hostels I’ve ever stayed at.  The staff were extremely helpful.  We asked them like a thousand questions and they happily answered them every time.  They treated security very seriously.  Kiev might not be safe, but I felt safe leaving my passport and cash in the locker in the room.

Security Measures

During our trip planning, we had read about the potential dangers in going to Kiev from the Canadian travel report about Ukraine.

The report tells travelers to “exercise a high degree of caution”.  It warns of dangers such as pickpockets, passport scams, armed robbery, racially motivated violence, muggings, etc.

Seeing how the hostel’s security was pretty good, we left our valuables in the room.  We each carried a decoy wallet with nothing in it except a scan of our passports and the cash we needed for the day.  No credit cards, no real ID, no cards at all.

If anybody steals a wallet, no big.  Better to lose $30 than all our money.  Nobody can scam us for our passports if we aren’t carrying it.  I didn’t even put on a hidden money belt.  The less I brought the better.  We felt pretty prepared, and luckily nothing happened.

Language

People in Kiev generally speak Ukranian or Russian.  I know neither.  I also don’t know the Cryllic writing system.  Even if I wanted to ask in English how to get somewhere, I can’t even pronounce the name of the place.  When I went to Greece, I could at least pick out the greek alphabet (side effect of studying math and physics), but in Kiev, I can’t even read anything.  Too bad.

Food

The first night we arrived in Kiev, we had no idea what kind of food was around here.  We couldn’t even read the menus anyway.  Picking a restaurant was a matter of randomly walking into a restaurant.  To our surprise, our random pick turned out to be Japanese food.  Interesting.  No pictures needed.  Vancouver has an abundance of Japanese restaurants.  Beer is worth taking a picture of though.  I can’t even read the label.

One of the hostel staff had recommended to us the Golden Dukat Coffee House.  I wish I took more pictures here, but I found someone else’s travel blog with good pictures of it!  Good coffee, good dessert.  And they have an English menu!

We were told that Borscht is one of the traditional soups in Ukraine.  When I tried it, its taste was so familiar and I had to think about where I had tried it before.  It tasted a lot like the vegetable soup that people can get at Hong Kong style cafes (羅宋湯).  I Googled it later, and apparently the Hong Kong recipe (while a little bit different) is a derivative of it.  What a coincidence.

Independence Square

By far the largest city square I have been to.  For me this was the place to see in Kiev.  The pictures here don’t do justice to how epic it was.

At the square, there would always be these people carrying pigeons around.  They kept coming up to me with me and I had no idea what they wanted.  Later I found out that apparently they’re trying to get tourists to take a picture with them holding a bird.  Not sure why that’s cool but okay.

There were also people dressed up like Mickey Mouse or Shrek trying to get little kids to take pictures with them for money.  They did this even when the temperature was above 30 degrees Celsius.

St. Andrew’s Church

Nearby our hostel, there was a nice church.  It’s architecture was quite different from anything I’d seen before.

Friendship Arch

This arch was built to commemorate the unification of Ukraine and Russia when Ukraine was still part of the Soviet Union.

Street Market

On the way from our hostel to Independence Square, we walked along a long stretch of road with many street vendors selling souvenirs, trinkets and other random stuff.  People there even sold gas masks, replica German WWII medals, and fake guns.

Trip Ideas for Next Time

After we came back to Vancouver, we found out that the hostel started offering tours to abandoned missile silos, helicopter rides, and Yak plane acrobatics!  If only the hostel were offering those tours.  We would have totally gone to those.  There’s always next time.

Links to photo albums:

• Kiev
• Kiev (Edward’s Photos)

It was quite a walk from the main train station to the hostel (especially after getting lost a few times).  If we had known there was a closer station at the convention center, we would have gone there instead.

The hostel we stayed at was quite nice (but expensive).  The breakfast was amazing too.  It’s been a while since I had a giant bread roll with a huge stack of meat and cheese with yogurt and muesli on the side.  It was so simple, but so delicious.  Something I wish I could eat more of in Canada.  I also got the chance to have German beer again.  That was delicious too.

We had one day to explore Frankfurt before we flew to Kiev, so we visited the old town and Senckenberg Museum.  As with any German city, there’s probably an old town district.  Frankfurt was no different, despite  how modern the city is.

However, having been to many of these during my first Europe trip, seeing the old architecture just seemed pretty ordinary.  There wasn’t anything exciting in it anymore.

The Senckenberg Museum was a lot more interesting for only one reason.  Dinosaurs.

There was a lot more cool stuff there too like brains and preserved half-developed baby tigers inside jars. Preserved cross-sections of hearts or a brain with spinal cord laid out in a line. I think the cool factor was that everything was in a jar.

For me, that was as cool as Frankfurt got. The trip got way more exciting once we arrived in Ukraine.

Links to photo albums:

• Frankfurt am Main
• Frankfurt am Main (Edward’s Photos)
• Senckenberg Museum
• Senckenberg Museum (Edward’s Photos)