Instead of fitting into simplified geographical labels, there’s a strong sense of being part of a culture formed in the crossroads of Europe and Asia, shaped by both the legacy of the Ottoman Empire and the reforms of the modern Turkish republic. Many people see themselves as belonging to a distinct Turkish identity.

Hagia Sophia’s Thousand-Year Transformation

Our first stop was the magnificent Hagia Sophia, a structure that embodies Istanbul’s identity more than any other building. Originally constructed by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I between 532 and 537 CE, this architectural marvel has undergone many transformations.

The building’s history reads like a political timeline of empires. For nearly a millennium, it served as the principal cathedral of Eastern Christianity until 1453, when Sultan Mehmed II converted it into a mosque following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople. The Ottomans didn’t destroy the Christian elements but rather incorporated them into their Islamic architecture, adding minarets, a mihrab, and a minbar while preserving many of the original Byzantine mosaics. Even today it remains the centre of politics, having witnessed protesters unfurling a “Free Palestine” sign, before quickly removing it, presumably for a social media campaign. Other sensitive topics like the Armenian genocide and the population exchange with Greece reflect ongoing struggles with historical memory and national identity. Our guide tended to avoid these questions, due to their political sensitivity.

The transformation continued into the modern era when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk converted it into a museum in 1934, symbolizing Turkey’s secular reforms. For 86 years, it existed as a unique blend of Christian and Islamic heritage until July 2020, when it was reconverted to a mosque. This most recent change sparked international debate, but it ensures that this architectural wonder continues to serve as a living, breathing place of worship rather than merely a historical artifact.

What captures visitors’ attention immediately are the massive circular calligraphic roundels – some of the largest in the Islamic world. These wooden panels, inscribed by the Ottoman calligrapher Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi, display the names of Allah, Prophet Muhammad, the first four caliphs (Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, and Ali), and Muhammad’s grandsons Hassan and Hussein.

The Christian mosaics that survive today offer glimpses into Byzantine artistry. During the Ottoman period, many were plastered over but not destroyed, allowing for their later restoration during the museum years.

The Blue Mosque: Six Minarets and an Architectural Controversy

Directly across from Hagia Sophia stands the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque, completed in 1616 during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I. The mosque was designed by architect Sedefkar Mehmed Ağa as an imperial show of strength to complement the imposing Hagia Sophia. Its most distinctive feature – six minarets – caused considerable controversy when first built, as only the Prophet’s mosque in Mecca possessed the same number. Unlike Hagia Sophia’s converted structure, the Blue Mosque was purpose-built as a place of Islamic worship.

Minarets serve both functional and symbolic purposes. Their number indicates a mosque’s importance: most mosques have one minaret, significant mosques have two, and only the most important imperial mosques have four or more. Originally, muezzins climbed these towers five times daily to call the faithful to prayer, with the call projecting in all directions from the circular galleries.

The mosque earned its popular name from the more than 20,000 handmade İznik tiles that adorn its interior. These ceramic masterpieces feature intricate designs of tulips, roses, carnations, and lilies in predominantly blue hues, beautifully illuminated by 260 windows. The craftsmanship represents the pinnacle of Ottoman ceramic art, with each tile contributing to a harmonious whole that creates an almost meditative atmosphere.

During our visit, we observed the quiet distribution of Qurans to interested visitors, reflecting the mosque’s role as both a place of worship and cultural exchange.

The Basilica Cistern’s Mysterious Depths

Built in the 6th century during Emperor Justinian I’s reign, this underground marvel was designed to supply water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and Hagia Sophia. The engineering achievement is staggering: 336 marble columns, each approximately 9 meters tall, arranged in 12 rows of 28 columns, supporting the weight of the vaulted ceiling above.

The cistern’s most intriguing features are the Medusa heads serving as column bases. These carved blocks were discovered during restoration work between 1985 and 1987, having remained hidden for centuries.

Several explanations exist for these mysterious sculptures. Some historians believe the heads were intentionally placed upside down to neutralize Medusa’s legendary power to turn viewers to stone. Others suggest they were simply repurposed architectural elements from earlier Roman buildings, positioned for purely structural reasons. A third theory proposes they were placed as protective talismans against evil spirits.

The cistern’s Islamic history reveals an interesting cultural perspective on flowing versus still water. When the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, they largely abandoned the cistern because Islamic tradition considers moving water more spiritually pure than stored water. This cultural preference led to the cistern’s gradual neglect until its rediscovery and restoration in the modern era.

The atmospheric lighting and the sound of water dropping from the ceiling create an almost mystical environment that makes visitors feel like they’re exploring an underground cathedral. The wooden walkways allow close examination of the varied column capitals, some Corinthian, others Ionic or Doric, evidence that the builders sourced materials from diverse ancient structures throughout the empire.

Imperial Opulence: Inside Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace served as the primary residence of Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years, and walking through its courtyards and chambers offers an intimate glimpse into imperial life. The palace complex is vast, containing multiple courtyards, residential quarters, administrative buildings, and the famous Harem, where the sultan’s family and concubines lived in seclusion.

The palace’s Sacred Relics chamber houses one of the world’s most significant collections of Islamic artifacts. These relics were brought to Istanbul in 1517 when Sultan Selim I conquered the holy cities of Mecca and Medina, establishing himself as Caliph. The collection includes items purportedly belonging to Prophet Muhammad himself: strands of hair from his beard, a tooth, his footprint, several swords, and most significantly, the Blessed Mantle (Hırka-i Saadet).

The chamber where these relics are displayed maintains a profound spiritual atmosphere, with an imam continuously reciting Quranic verses, a practice that has continued for centuries.

Whether one believes in the authenticity of these artifacts or not, their historical significance as symbols of Islamic leadership and spiritual authority is undeniable. The scholarly consensus confirms that Prophet Muhammad was indeed a historical figure who lived in western Arabia during the early 7th century CE, supported by contemporary Byzantine, Syrian, and Armenian sources.

The palace also contains remarkable examples of Ottoman craftsmanship and design. The tile work throughout the complex rivals that of Portugal’s Sintra Palace but with distinctly Turkish colour palettes and motifs[highlighted in visitor notes]. The various reception halls, and the sultan’s private chambers each tell stories of ceremony, diplomacy, and daily life in the Ottoman court.

The Harem quarters, often misunderstood as merely the sultan’s private domain, actually functioned as a complex social institution housing the royal family, their servants, and administrators. The intricate tile work, painted ceilings, and carefully designed spaces reveal the sophisticated court culture that governed the Ottoman Empire at its zenith.

A Culinary Disappointment: Fine Dining Falls Short

Our evening took us to a restaurant featured in the Michelin Guide, not a starred establishment, but one included in their recommendations. The experience proved disappointing. The meal began promisingly with traditional Turkish tea, and fresh bread. However, the execution fell short. While I generally like this cuisine, I didn’t enjoy their execution of it.

We began with a mezze platter featuring chickpea yogurt, spicy tomato spreads, stuffed grape leaves, feta cheese, and hummus. It looked good, but Each dish supposedly carried historical Ottoman connections, but the preparation lacked finesse.

All red meat was cooked well-done, reflecting traditional Turkish preferences that prioritize food safety over texture. While this cooking style has deep cultural roots, this part I had trouble getting used to.

I did enjoy the restaurant’s attempt to connect each dish to Ottoman history. The finale of apple tea was genuinely excellent. Even with the historical ambiance and cultural storytelling, the experience has room for improvement by international standards.

Farewell Moments: The Human Connection

Our most meaningful experiences came not from monuments but from human connections. Saying goodbye to our tour group at a local bar revealed the true value of shared travel experiences. The group had developed strong bonds, inside jokes, and genuine friendships over just a few days. While our tour guide occasionally seemed overwhelmed by the group’s energy and humour, his professionalism and knowledge enhanced our understanding of each site significantly.

I checked in together with one of our tour group members who happen to have the same flight connection as me, but in the process, the attendant mistakenly checked one of her suitcases under my itinerary, and I noticed it too late, causing us to spend time to work with the airline to return her luggage, a process that, thankfully, worked out a day later. I also met an Indian passenger on her first flight ever – traveling from India to Turkey to Frankfurt to Canada.

These moments reminded us that while Istanbul’s historic sites provide the framework for exploration, the people we meet, fellow travelers, guides, and locals enriches sightseeing into genuine cultural exchange. The laughter, shared observations, and collective wonder at ancient achievements created memories that we will carry with us.

Practical Observations: Modern Istanbul’s Challenges

The economic challenges facing Turkey were evident in pricing that approaches American levels despite significantly lower local wages. Inflation rates exceeding 47% in late 2024 have created substantial pressure on both residents and visitors. Unlike some nations, Turkey didn’t engage in excessive pandemic spending; however, several distinct factors have fueled inflation, such as persistent currency devaluation, lowering interest rates in the face of rising prices, and heavy reliance on imported goods (some even highly taxed). The political situation continues to generate debate, with critics arguing that democratic institutions have been weakened while supporters maintain that stability has been preserved.

The taxi situation in Istanbul remains problematic for tourists, with widespread reports of scams including overcharging, longer routes, and “broken” meters. The prevalence of these issues suggests systemic problems that detract from the city’s tourism appeal. Using public transportation or pre-arranged transfers appears advisable for visitors.

Istanbul’s airport stands out for its striking design and enormous scale (albeit with less than sufficient air conditioning), and amenities like business lounges with a mini golf course and a pool table give arriving travellers a strong first impression. However, this impressive gateway doesn’t fully hide the economic and social challenges that many people in Turkey face beyond its sleek halls.

See more of Istanbul here

The Stork Highway of Ancient Rome

Walking through Selçuk’s streets during the ongoing heat wave, we couldn’t help but notice the most unusual sight: massive white storks perched confidently atop Roman aqueduct ruins and modern utility poles alike. These aren’t just random visitors – they’re part of an annual migration pattern that has turned this historic town into Turkey’s unofficial stork capital.

Every March, storks return to Selçuk from their winter homes in sub-Saharan Africa. The storks choose the highest points available for their nests, including the remnants of Byzantine aqueducts that once supplied water to ancient Ephesus. Local authorities have even installed special platforms on utility poles to prevent the birds from electrocution while preserving their traditional nesting sites.

Mysteries of the Multi-Breasted Goddess

Our visit to the Ephesus Museum revealed one of archaeology’s most debated artifacts: a towering statue covered in what appears to be dozens of breasts. This is the famous Artemis of Ephesus, but those protuberances might not be what they seem.

The 292-centimetre-tall statue actually represents a fascinating scholarly controversy. While traditionally interpreted as multiple breasts symbolizing fertility, many experts now believe these oval objects are bull testicles, hung as offerings during sacrificial ceremonies. Some scholars even suggest they could be bee larvae, as bees were sacred to Artemis. What makes this debate particularly intriguing is that none of the “breasts” have nipples – a detail that ancient sculptors, masters of human anatomy, would hardly have overlooked.

This statue likely stood in the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, making it a tangible connection to one of antiquity’s most celebrated structures. The temple’s destruction by 401 CE means this museum piece represents our closest link to understanding how the ancient world venerated this powerful goddess.

Where Emperors Built Upon Apostles

The ruins of the Basilica of Saint John dominate Ayasoluk Hill, their weathered stones telling a story of imperial ambition, religious devotion, and inevitable decay. Emperor Justinian I commissioned this massive structure between 548 and 565 CE, designing it as both a pilgrimage destination and a worthy monument to house the tomb of John the Apostle.

The basilica measured 428 by 213 feet, making it potentially the seventh-largest church in the world if reconstructed today. Justinian modeled it after the Church of the Holy Apostles in Constantinople, creating a cruciform structure crowned with six domes. The builders incorporated materials from the nearby Temple of Artemis and other Ephesian ruins, recycling ancient marble and stones into Christian architecture.

The basilica’s decline began with Arab raids in the 7th and 8th centuries, which forced the construction of defensive walls around the structure. By 1304, invading Seljuk Turks converted part of the building into a mosque, and in 1402, Tamerlane’s Mongol army destroyed it during their invasion. Earthquakes in the 1360s completed the devastation, leaving the impressive ruins we see today.

A Castle Built on Sacred Ground

Crowning Ayasoluk Hill above the basilica ruins stands a fortress that represents the practical realities of medieval defense. The Ayasoluk Castle, built during the Byzantine era around the 6th century CE, incorporates stones from dismantled Roman buildings, including materials from Ephesian structures.

The castle’s strategic position made it valuable to successive rulers. Seljuk Turks expanded it after conquering the area in 1090, and Ottoman forces later added their own modifications. The fortress enclosed fifteen towers connected by 1.5 kilometres of walls, protecting a small community that included a mosque, cisterns, baths, and residential quarters.

What makes this castle particularly fascinating is its relationship with the basilica below. Rather than destroying the Christian site, medieval builders incorporated it into their defensive strategy, using the basilica’s walls as part of the lower fortress complex. This created unique architecture where Islamic military architecture literally rests upon Christian sacred space.

Divine Intervention at the Neighbourhood Mosque

Our exploration of Selçuk’s religious landscape led us to the İsa Bey Mosque, a remarkable example of 14th-century Anatolian architecture. Built between 1374-75 by Syrian architect Ali ibn el-Dimişki, this mosque demonstrates the transitional period between Seljuk and Ottoman architectural styles.

The mosque’s segregated prayer areas for women represent traditional Islamic practice, though such arrangements can appear restrictive to visitors from different cultural backgrounds. These architectural divisions reflect religious interpretations that prioritize modesty and separate worship spaces, practices that have shaped Islamic religious architecture for centuries.

During our visit, we discovered that the mosque offers free Quran copies to interested visitors – a practice that connects contemporary Islamic outreach with the site’s long history as a religious centre. While there, we met a local man who was especially eager to talk to us about Islam. He explained that he hadn’t actually planned to visit the mosque at that time; he was on his way to complete some errands, but on a whim decided to stop by and pick up a Quran for a friend. Instead, he ran into us and was convinced that our meeting was no coincidence, telling us he believed it was divine intervention.

Our conversation quickly turned philosophical. He earnestly shared his belief that the Quran contains the answers to every question in life, presenting it as the ultimate guide to truth. At one point, he shared a rather striking perspective: he said that people who believe in God are the highest tier of lifeforms, followed by animals, with people who don’t believe, especially those who “act like they are their own god”, ranking below animals. I couldn’t help but laugh internally, realizing that by his definition I must be beneath the neighborhood cats lounging in the sun! He meant no offense, his words were offered with sincerity and a desire to share his worldview. Still, I got the impression he didn’t realize we weren’t religious ourselves, or how his ranking might sound to an outsider.

Echoes of the Population Exchange

Our journey to Şirince village, perched on a hillside 8 kilometres from Selçuk, revealed one of Turkey’s most poignant historical legacies. This mountaintop settlement, originally called Çirkince (meaning “ugly” in Turkish), was supposedly named by its Greek founders to deter other settlers from discovering their mountain paradise.

The village prospered under its Greek Orthodox Christian population, who spoke primarily Turkish despite their religious identity. By 1908-09, over 1,000 houses sheltered Greek families who cultivated vines, tobacco, figs, and olives while maintaining their distinct cultural traditions.

The 1923 Population Exchange between Greece and Turkey devastated Şirince’s established community. This compulsory transfer, formalized in the Convention Concerning the Exchange of Greek and Turkish Populations, displaced approximately 1.6 million people based solely on religious affiliation. Greek Orthodox Christians from Turkish territories moved to Greece, while Muslims from Greece relocated to Turkey. The abandoned houses we encountered represent this traumatic displacement.

The Grandeur and Complexity of Ancient Ephesus

The archaeological site of Ephesus, directly connected to modern Selçuk, represents one of the Mediterranean’s most significant Roman cities. As we walked among its ruins during the intensifying heat wave, the scale and sophistication of this ancient metropolis became immediately apparent. A local restaurant owner’s joke about Efes beer – suggesting we walk a few kilometres toward ancient Ephesus since “Efes” is simply the Turkish name for the ancient city – highlighted how thoroughly this archaeological site integrates with the culture. The beer’s naming represents a modern commercial connection to ancient prestige.

The Temple of Artemis ruins, reduced now to a single reconstructed column, still commanded respect as the remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Though little survives of this massive structure, which once measured 137 metres long and featured 127 columns each standing 18 metres high, the site’s significance resonates across millennia.

Ephesus declined through a combination of geographical and political factors. The Küçük Menderes River gradually silted up the harbour, cutting the city’s vital connection to maritime trade routes. Natural disasters, including a devastating earthquake in 614 CE, damaged infrastructure repeatedly. The rise of Christianity displaced traditional pagan worship, while Gothic invasions in 262 CE destroyed much of the city, including the Temple of Artemis.

I was captivated by how Ephesus’s grandeur was engineered. The ancients combined brute force and technical innovation. Iron pins and lead clamps held massive marble slabs together, damping seismic shocks and locking the city’s great structures in place (though unlikely they knew how well that method would stand up to an actual earthquake).

Workers used wooden cranes, pulleys, and earth ramps to raise monolithic columns, guiding tonnes of stone into precise positions.

We realized that knowing Latin wouldn’t have helped us decipher most Ephesian inscriptions. The city’s later inscriptions switched entirely to Greek, the region’s lingua franca after Alexander the Great’s conquest. An odd feeling – usually we lament not knowing Latin, but this time, it wouldn’t have helped at all. Amid these weighty ruins, we saw samples of the ichthys fish symbol (colloquially known as the Jesus fish symbol), scratched into ancient stones, symbolizing early Christianity. In Greek, it’s written as ΙΧΘΥΣ, and is sometimes seen abbreviated using a symbol resembling a pizza cut into eight slices.

The Temple That Bridged Empires

Among Ephesus’s countless architectural treasures, the Temple of Hadrian stands as a masterpiece of cultural synthesis. This elegantly proportioned structure, built around 117 CE, demonstrates how Roman architects embraced and transformed Eastern design traditions through its distinctive Syrian arch.

The temple’s facade tells multiple stories through stone. Tyche, goddess of city fortune, crowns the keystone wearing walls as her crown, symbolizing her protection over Ephesian prosperity. Above the inner doorway, a relief of Medusa emerges from acanthus leaves, not the terrifying monster of myth, but a protective figure surrounded by the Mediterranean vegetation that inspired Corinthian column designs.

Roman Domestic Life Preserved in Paint

The Terrace Houses of Ephesus shattered our expectations of ancient Roman domestic architecture. These luxury residences, inhabited by wealthy families from the 1st to 7th centuries CE, revealed that Roman homes were far more colourful and sophisticated than typical stone ruins suggest.

The houses featured extensive frescoed walls with floral motifs, geometric patterns, and figurative scenes painted directly onto plaster surfaces. Archaeologists have carefully restored many of these paintings, revealing the artistic sophistication of domestic Roman decoration. The mosaic floors display intricate geometric and figural designs, demonstrating the high level of craftsmanship available to Ephesian elite. These restorations represent authentic ancient artwork, not modern interpretations.

The houses incorporated sophisticated engineering, including hypocaust heating systems that circulated warm air beneath floors and within walls, and plumbing that provided both hot and cold running water. These amenities matched those available in Roman public baths, demonstrating the luxury standards of Ephesian wealthy families.

The Library That Conquered Death

The Library of Celsus stands as Ephesus’s most iconic structure, and deservedly so. This magnificent building, constructed between 110-135 CE, served the dual purpose of housing scrolls and honouring the dead. Tiberius Julius Aquila commissioned the library as a memorial to his father, Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, who had served as Roman consul and proconsul of Asia. The building functioned as both a repository of knowledge, holding approximately 12,000 scrolls, and as Celsus’s mausoleum – his marble sarcophagus rests in a crypt beneath the building.

Fire destroyed the library’s interior around 262 CE, though the façade survived until earthquakes brought it down in the 10th or 11th century. Austrian archaeologists reconstructed the façade between 1970 and 1978, creating the impressive sight that draws crowds today for both daytime visits and evening light shows.

As we left, we saw people lined up for hundreds of meters lining up to see the evening light show – many of them coming in from cruise ships.

See more images from Selçuk and Ancient Ephesus

First Impressions of a Continental Bridge

The journey to Istanbul had begun with a business class flight, featuring a surprisingly excellent grilled duck leg – tender, juicy, and far exceeding expectations for airline cuisine. The connection through Madrid provided time to relax in the lounge before boarding Turkish Airlines for the final leg.

Turkish Airlines, the country’s flag carrier, serves traditional Turkish mezze platters on international flights, featuring selections like ezme (spicy tomato paste), muhammara (red pepper and walnut dip), and various cheese preparations. The cold appetizer service, while authentically Turkish, presents flavours that challenged my unaccustomed palates with their intensity and unique spice combinations.

Our first night’s accommodation was a newly constructed hotel that showcased both the promise and pitfalls of Istanbul’s rapidly expanding tourism infrastructure. While the breakfast buffet displayed beautiful presentation, the protein selection was limited. One memorable detail was the availability of purple olives, which are actually black olives that have been treated with a natural fermentation process, giving them their distinctive colour and slightly different flavour profile. The newly opened hotel gleamed with modern finishes, yet a closer look revealed shortcuts beneath the polish: water from the sink’s U-trap had a slow drip, hinting at rushed plumbing work.

Walking Through Conquest

In the morning, we met a subset of our group tour that also signed up for this optional walking tour. It began at the Gate of Charisius of the Theodosian Walls, the massive fortification system that protected Constantinople for over 1,000 years until Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II finally breached them in 1453. These walls, built in the 5th century, stretched for 12 miles and featured double lines of defence with towers and gates. The conquest of Constantinople marked the end of the Byzantine Empire and the beginning of Ottoman rule over this strategic city.

Our guide also shared a local idiom about fig trees, explaining that calling a “fig tree” appears complimentary but actually suggests they ruin everything around them – much like how fig trees’ aggressive root systems can damage foundations and infrastructure.

Mihrimah Sultan Mosque

We visited the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, designed by the master architect Mimar Sinan in the 16th century. This mosque, one of two built for Sultan Süleyman’s daughter, demonstrates the sophisticated engineering and spiritual symbolism of Ottoman architecture.

Mosque architecture reflects Islamic principles and practical needs. The mihrab (prayer niche) always faces Mecca, orienting worshippers toward the holy city. The minbar (pulpit) stands to the right of the mihrab, while the main prayer hall remains free of furniture to accommodate prostration. The qibla wall (facing Mecca) receives the most decorative attention, often featuring intricate calligraphy and geometric patterns.

The building process showcased the ritual of wudu (ablution), which Muslims perform before prayer. The wudu process follows specific steps: first, practitioners state their intention and say “Bismillah” (in the name of Allah). They then wash their hands three times, rinse their mouth three times, cleanse their nostrils three times, wash their face three times, wash their arms up to the elbows three times, wipe their head once, clean their ears, and finally wash their feet up to the ankles three times. This purification ritual prepares both body and mind for prayer.

Church of St. Mary of the Spring

The Church of St. Mary of the Spring, known as Zoödochos Pege, represents a significant Orthodox Christian site. Emperor Justinian I built the original church here in the 6th century. The current structure dates to 1835, rebuilt after Ottoman forces destroyed the Byzantine-era building.

The church’s Byzantine art reflects the Eastern Orthodox tradition that survived the Iconoclastic periods of the 8th and 9th centuries. These paintings, featuring saints and angels with golden halos, represent the triumph of iconophiles (image-lovers) over iconoclasts (image-breakers). The artwork employs traditional Byzantine techniques, using gold leaf backgrounds to suggest divine light and eternal glory.

The holy spring beneath the church has attracted pilgrims for 1,500 years. Orthodox Christians believe the water possesses healing properties, and the site remains active for religious ceremonies.

Culinary Discoveries

Our lunch featured a carefully curated selection of Turkish dishes, including pide, often called “Turkish pizza” but more accurately described as boat-shaped flatbread topped with various ingredients. Traditional pide dough contains flour, yeast, water, salt, and sometimes yogurt or olive oil. The boat shape is formed by folding the edges, creating a rim that holds ingredients like minced meat, cheese, or vegetables seasoned with Turkish spices such as cumin, paprika, and parsley.

The meal also included various mezze spreads, including hummus and spicier preparations, along with vegetables cooked in clay pots – a traditional method that infuses food with earthy flavours while retaining moisture and nutrients.

The Art of Turkish Coffee

Turkish coffee preparation represents a centuries-old tradition that UNESCO recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The process begins with finely ground coffee beans, ground to a powder-like consistency much finer than regular coffee. The coffee is brewed in a cezve (a small, long-handled pot traditionally made of copper) with cold water and sugar if desired.

The brewing process requires patience and attention. The cezve is heated slowly over medium heat, allowing the coffee to warm gradually. As it heats, dark foam begins to form. The key moment arrives when the coffee approaches a boil – the foam is carefully distributed among the cups before the coffee itself is poured. This foam is considered essential to proper Turkish coffee service.

The resulting coffee has an earthy, intense flavour that can surprise newcomers. The grounds settle at the bottom of the cup, and the coffee is never stirred once served. The texture is notably different from filtered coffee, with a slightly grainy consistency that reflects the traditional preparation method. This coffee culture extends beyond mere consumption – it plays a role in social rituals, including traditional marriage customs where the bride-to-be serves coffee to the groom’s family.

Living History in Modern Times

Our exploration revealed parts of town where residents have built apartments directly on top of the old city walls that once surrounded Constantinople. These informal settlements demonstrate how Istanbul’s residents have adapted historic structures for modern needs.

Cruising the Continental Divide

The Bosphorus cruise provided perspectives on Istanbul’s architectural evolution across different periods and empires. This narrow strait, connecting the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, serves as the boundary between Europe and Asia, making Istanbul the only city spanning two continents.

As the ferry glided along the strait, we caught sight of Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace (which I will get into in a later post).

Historic yalı (waterfront mansions) line the shores, representing the Ottoman elite’s summer residences. These wooden structures, many dating to the 18th and 19th centuries. People still live in these houses today, and for a time, they could lounge on their patio overlooking the river, but not many more due to the tourist traffic.

We observed the Ortaköy Mosque, a 19th-century gem celebrated for its ornate baroque revival design, delicate stonework, and prominent twin minarets.

The cruise also revealed the Rumeli Fortress, constructed in just four months in 1452 by Sultan Mehmed II as part of his conquest preparations. This fortress, along with the Anadolu Fortress on the Asian side, allowed the Ottomans to control Bosphorus traffic and cut off Byzantine supply lines.

From the water, we observed the Dolmabahçe Palace, a 19th-century Ottoman palace that served as the empire’s administrative center during its final decades.

The Spice Route’s Istanbul Hub

The Spice Bazaar, built in 1664 as part of the New Mosque complex, served as a crucial link in the global spice trade. Historically called the Egyptian Bazaar because it was funded by revenues from Egypt, the market connected Asian spice producers with European consumers.

Turkey’s position along historic trade routes gave it access to spices from across Asia, but the country also produces distinctive spices that reflect its unique climate and culinary traditions. Turkish red pepper flakes (pul biber) vary in heat levels and include smoky varieties like isot biber from Şanlıurfa. Sumac, made from berries of the Rhus coriaria bush, provides a citrusy tartness that’s become essential to Turkish cuisine. Turkish spice culture developed over centuries of trade and cultural exchange. The Ottoman Empire’s vast territory allowed for the cultivation and trade of numerous spices, while the empire’s diverse population contributed different culinary traditions. This history explains why Istanbul’s spice markets offer such variety and why Turkish cuisine incorporates flavours from across the Mediterranean, Middle East, and Central Asia.

The spice market today caters heavily to tourists, a far cry from what it used to be, with vendors selling everything from traditional spices to novelty items like “Turkish Viagra tea” (likely a blend of herbs with no proven medicinal properties). However, authentic spice shops still operate here.

An Unexpected Group Dynamic

That evening, we met with the rest of the tour group. Our group gathered around a street-side table in Istanbul, waiting for our eighth and final member who had been delayed. Our group had clicked immediately, and someone joked that the missing traveller might be the odd one out. At that moment, a man walked past our table with a distinctly sour expression. We called out the missing member’s name as a joke, not expecting it to actually be him – but it was!

His taxi driver had taken him on an expensive detour around the city (taxi drivers across Istanbul are notorious for being scammers), explaining his mood. Once he joined our table and shared his story, his demeanour shifted completely. Later that evening, several of us continued to a rooftop bar, where conversations flowed as easily as the drinks. Istanbul’s Sultanahmet district, where we stayed, contains numerous hotels with rooftop terraces offering views of the city’s distinctive silhouette of domes and minarets.

Our group of eight travelled around the country in a van, staying in budget hotels and exploring destinations that attracted a younger backpacker crowd. The tour format allowed for spontaneous discoveries and shared experiences that individual travel might have missed, as more posts will soon show.

See here for more images of Istanbul

We approached this visit with some trepidation, having read about Argentina’s hyperinflation and concerns about safety. However, with careful research and by sticking to the recommended neighbourhoods. We remained cautious, keeping our belongings close and avoiding overly crowded areas.

Our first challenge was getting an Uber. The first driver refused to take us because he wanted cash under the table, a common issue in Argentina due to the preference for cash transactions. Our second driver was much more accommodating and even pointed out landmarks as we drove past.

Exploring Recoleta

Our exploration took us through several distinct neighbourhoods, beginning with Recoleta. We passed by the Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar, a church built in 1732 that stands as the second oldest in Buenos Aires.

Next to the church, La Recoleta Cemetery ranks among the most famous burial grounds in the world. This city of the dead contains over 4600 vaults, many decorated with elaborate statues and intricate marble carvings. Perhaps its most famous resident is Eva Perón, the former First Lady of Argentina who was a powerful political figure and advocate for women’s suffrage and labour rights. Known affectionately as “Evita,” she became a cultural icon whose life inspired books, films, and a famous musical. Despite her enormous popularity among working-class Argentinians, her tomb remains relatively modest compared to the grandiose mausoleums surrounding it.

In the nearby Recoleta Garden, we came across an interesting sight – a massive tree growing on a concrete platform.

Continuing our walk, we came upon the Floralis Genérica, a massive stainless steel flower sculpture. Created by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano and installed in 2002, this mechanical flower actually opens its petals each morning and closes them at sunset, mimicking the behaviour of a real flower symbolizing hope and rebirth.

We passed through a series of public parks where we saw people weightlifting in open spaces. It was interesting to see that people felt safe enough to bring heavy equipment like barbells and weights to exercise outdoors. This outdoor fitness culture suggested we were indeed in a safer area of the city.

Nearer to our hotel, we visited El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a former theatre that has been converted into one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Originally opened in 1919 as a theatre, the venue still retains its ornate ceiling frescoes, balconies, and stage. The theatre boxes now serve as intimate reading nooks, while the former stage houses a café.

Our walk in Recoleta offered a nice introduction to Buenos Aires, showcasing the neighbourhood’s blend of historical significance, architectural beauty, and modern urban life. Despite our initial safety concerns, we found Recoleta to be not only secure but genuinely welcoming, allowing us to relax and fully appreciate its considerable charms.

A Steakhouse Experience at La Cabrera

For our first dinner in Buenos Aires, we visited the renowned La Cabrera steakhouse. With our reservation at 20:30 – considered “early” by local standards – we were introduced to the Argentine custom of late dining. The steak arrived with a charred exterior and a tender, juicy centre. It arrived with a selection of dipping sauces, which are a staple in Argentinian cuisine. These included chimichurri (a tangy mix of parsley, garlic, vinegar, and oil), and mustard-based sauces.

One downside of the dining experience was the unexpected charges. Servers would present items as complimentary, but they’d end up on the bill after. We could have made a fuss, but we decided to let it go – it’s always harder in a foreign country with a language we don’t speak and without knowing the local customs. Despite this, the meal was still reasonably priced, especially considering the exchange rate.

Roux from the Michelin Guide

For lunch, we ate at Roux, a Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant (different from Michelin Star – the star would have reflected an even greater quality). The meal began with a “complimentary” foie gras, gazpacho, and deep-fried cod croquettes. Remembering our experience at La Cabrera, we were wary of additional charges, but this time we actually wanted these.

The adventurous highlight of our meal was llama carpaccio from the Jujuy Province with a cherry tomato vinaigrette, capers and caperberries from “La Chacrita”. Llama meat has a mild, slightly gamey flavour.

We also tried Jugoso Bife Black Angus Azul Natural Beef, served with potato, roasted red peppers, truffle air, and its own juices. The beef was rich and tender, with the truffle adding depth to the dish. While Roux delivered a refined dining experience with well-executed dishes and thoughtful presentation, we found that the flavors, while excellent, didn’t quite surpass the bold, hearty appeal of La Cabrera.

Dessert was flan-like cake with vanilla ice cream and dulce de leche. Dulce de leche is a staple in Argentina, found in everything from pastries to ice cream. It is a caramel-like confection made by slowly heating sweetened milk, which we noticed featured prominently throughout Buenos Aires.

An interesting thing to mention here is that even for an upscale restaurant here, the staff still did not speak much English. I did my best with the handful of Spanish words that I knew to get by. I would have thought that these establishments would have decent English, but they didn’t.

Landmarks in El Centro

Later, we walked around El Centro, which felt noticeably less safe than Recoleta with larger crowds and “shady” individuals sleeping/walking about. Nevertheless, we visited Teatro Colón, Argentina’s premier opera house. Opened in 1908, it is regarded as one of the best concert venues in the world due to its exceptional acoustics and grand architecture.

We also saw the Obelisk of Buenos Aires, a 67-metre-tall monument commemorating the 400th anniversary of the city’s founding. Located in the middle of a major intersection, it serves as one of Buenos Aires’ most recognizable landmarks.

Our walk to Mall Pacifico was uncomfortable, as we were repeatedly approached by money changers shouting “cambio.” Our fatigue set in at a good time when we had to go to the airport, for our final journey home.

The Final End of a Long Journey

Our Buenos Aires visit concluded what had been a remarkable expedition to Antarctica. The journey there involved two days of flying to Buenos Aires, one day of flying to Ushuaia, and two days crossing the Drake Passage. We’ve already done the three days coming back to Buenos Aires, and now we’ll do another two days on the plane back home.

Waitomo Ruakuri Cave is a remarkable underground world filled with stunning rock formations and bioluminescent creatures. Waitomo Caves offer various tour options, including adventurous ones where visitors can go tubing through underground waterways and waterfalls. We opted for the dry tour at the Ruakuri Cave, which still provided an impressive cave experience without getting wet. The name Te Ruakuri, translates to “The Den of Dogs” (by the local hapū), and refers the surrounding area when wild dogs were discovered at the cave entrance.

Stalactites hung from the ceiling like icicles frozen in time, while stalagmites reached up from the cave floor.

Some formations resembled delicate curtains, while others took on a broccoli-like appearance. We were insructed not to touch the rocks as the oils on our skin could obstruct the flow of water and impact the erosion process.

Adding to the cave’s geological interest, some sections of the rock still contain visible fossils, offering glimpses into the area’s ancient past.

Glowworms inhabit parts of the cave. These fascinating creatures, actually the larvae of a type of fungus gnat, create a display with their bioluminescent glow. The glowworms use this light to attract prey, creating sticky threads of saliva that hang down like a spider’s web to catch small insects. The guide instructed us to cover our mouths because the force of our breath could tangle up the saliva strands, negatively impacting their ability to feed. One of them was even in a cocoon.

The life cycle of these glowworms is quite remarkable. Before entering their pupal stage, glowworm larvae only need a couple of bugs throughout the several months as a larva. After pupation, the adult glowworm emerges but lives for only a few days, during which time it mates and lays eggs to continue the cycle.

The cave’s delicate ecosystem has been impacted by human activity. In the early 20th century, visitors were allowed to take pieces of stalactites home as souvenirs. This practice has since been banned, as it takes an exceptionally long time—approximately 100 years—for just one centimetre of these rock formations to grow.

Te Puia: Geothermal Wonders and Maori Culture

Te Puia, a geothermal park in Rotorua that offers a blend of natural wonders and Maori cultural experiences. Owned and operated by Maori people, Te Puia serves as both a tourist attraction and a school for preserving and teaching Maori arts and culture.

Here, students learn traditional Maori arts such as wood carving, which played a crucial role in preserving Maori history before the introduction of written language. Students don’t pay to attend the school, but the work they produce becomes the property of the school. The intricate carvings and tattoos served as a means of storytelling and passing down cultural knowledge through generations. The school at Te Puia has faced challenges due to the COVID-19 pandemic. With international travel still recovering, some classrooms have had to close temporarily. However, the revenue generated from visitor entrance fees continues to fund the school’s important work in preserving Maori culture.

The geothermal area of Te Puia spans approximately 60 hectares, featuring an array of impressive geysers. While several geysers erupt at various intervals throughout the park, the largest geyser typically erupts once or twice an hour. We didn’t witness this display during our visit though. An interesting aspect of Te Puia is that local Maori tribes still reside in the area and have the unique privilege of freely accessing the geothermal areas. Visitors, on the other hand, must adhere to safety regulations due to the potential dangers associated with the geothermal activity.

Scenic Drive Through New Zealand’s Countryside

Between our cave and geothermal adventures, we had the pleasure of driving through New Zealand’s picturesque countryside. The landscape unfolded before us in a series of rolling hills, creating a patchwork of green pastures that stretched as far as the eye could see.

The countryside is home to vast numbers of sheep and cows, which dot the hillsides and valleys. Whenever we stopped at vista points, the cows would turn their heads and stare at us with what seemed like genuine curiosity.

Check out more of Waitomo Ruakuri Caves and Te Puia Geothermal Park!

Brunch, Magic Coffee, Chocolate, and Pasta Perfection

Melbourne’s reputation for excellent brunches was confirmed at The Hardware Société. I enjoyed a beef brisket with pearl onions and a soft-boiled egg, as well as an ahi tuna dish served with soft-boiled eggs and hummus.

I had heard of Melbourne’s reputation of having a really strong coffee culture, and I was eager to try the local specialty known as a “Magic”. This Melbourne invention consists of a double ristretto (a short, concentrated espresso shot) topped with steamed milk in a smaller cup than a standard latte. The result is a strong, creamy coffee with a rich flavour profile. While the coffee didn’t impress me as much as I expected, I really enjoyed the latte art.

The city’s culinary scene extends beyond coffee. I noticed a trend of adorning dishes with edible flowers, which adds visual appeal and subtle flavours.

I also visited Koko Black, a local chocolatier. While their actual chocolate tasted mediocre, their chocolate with embedded Tasmanian honeycomb stood out. The sweet, crunchy honeycomb added a nice crunchy texture and flavour to the chocolate.

One of the culinary highlights was dinner at Tipo 00, where we tried their pasta tasting menu. The freshly made pasta was cooked to perfect al dente, offering just the right amount of resistance to the bite. Their squid ink pasta was particularly memorable. This striking black pasta had a subtle briny flavour, with a silky texture that paired nicely with seafood. We took some leftovers home and they still had that al dente texture even after going through the microwave. Although I tried some wine pairings, they paled in comparison to the exceptional wines we had experienced at Oakridge Winery. We also attempted to dine at Serai, a Filipino fusion restaurant, but our poor planning meant we were still too full from our earlier meals to fully appreciate the experience.

On a lighter note, we spotted an ice cream shop called “Bing Chillin,” which I thought funny because it’s essentially a reference how John Cena says “ice cream” in Chinese. No idea if it even sells ice cream or whether it’s good.

Oakridge Winery

The culinary highlight was an indulgent four-course meal with wine pairings at Oakridge Winery in the nearby Yarra Valley. In my excitement, I committed a traveller’s cardinal sin – I forgot to take pictures of most of it.

The menu featured dishes that were a symphony of tastes and textures. We savoured duck with celeriac, chard, and blood orange. Another standout was the Smith & Jackson sirloin (local from the Yarra Valley), accompanied by spinach, charred leek, and horseradish. I particularly enjoyed the interplay of the beef’s richness with the sharp horseradish and slightly bitter charred leek. Even the potatoes served alongside were perfectly crisp, adding a satisfying textural element. For dessert, a chocolate torte arrived paired with artichoke ice cream (I was skeptical about the artichoke, but found surprisingly delightful). In addition, we indulged in a silky smooth buttermilk panna cotta served with sorbet.

Being at a winery, it seemed only fitting to opt for the wine pairing. The 2017 Oakridge Blanc de Blancs was a particular standout. This sparkling wine offered crisp multi-dimensional notes of citrus. Too bad this wine isn’t available where we live. For one of the wines, the waitress could point out in the distance where the grapes came from because those grapes came specifically from this plantation as opposed to the other Oakridge plantations in the area.

We spent nearly three hours at our window-side table, savouring each course while gazing out over the winery. The view of neat rows of vines stretching into the distance added to the overall sensory experience. Our waitress guided us through each course, explaining the intricate details of every dish. Even though her explanations have escaped me, I still appreciated the experience.

After our leisurely meal, we had hoped to take a stroll around the winery to walk off some of our indulgence. However, the weather had other plans. Despite it being only 12°C, the cold felt more biting than we expected.

Queen Victoria Market

This sprawling complex houses vendors selling everything from touristy trinkets to fresh produce. While some areas featured items of questionable quality, the stalls offering movie poster prints and art prints of landmarks of different countries interested me the most.

The market’s expansive food section was particularly impressive, reminiscent of markets I’ve visited in other cities like Vancouver’s Granville Island Market or Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market.

Laneways and Arcades

Melbourne’s laneways are a defining feature of the city’s urban landscape. These narrow streets and alleys, once neglected, have been transformed into vibrant pedestrian thoroughfares lined with cafes, boutiques, and street art. I explored Degraves Street, one of the most famous laneways, and was captivated by its European-style atmosphere and array of eateries.

Nearby, The Block Arcade offered a glimpse into Melbourne’s Victorian-era architecture. This elegant shopping gallery, built in the 1890s, features mosaic-tiled floors, a glass canopy, and wrought iron fixtures. Inside, I discovered the oldest tea rooms in Australia and, surprisingly, a Dr. Seuss art store selling high-end paintings inspired by the beloved children’s author’s works.

Flinders Street Station

Flinders Street Station, with its distinctive yellow façade and green copper dome, serves as a major landmark and transport hub. Built in 1910, it’s Australia’s oldest train station.

It reminded me a bit of Toronto’s Union Station in the sense that they’re both iconic transportation hubs of their respective cities.

Motorsport and Automotive Experiences

As a mild Formula 1 enthusiast, I visited the Melbourne Grand Prix Circuit at Albert Park. I tried to drive around the track, but found some sections blocked off.

The lake at Albert Park offered a view of Melbourne’s skyline. To my surprise, I spotted black swans gliding across the water – a first for me, but probably an unsurprising Australian sight.

Dutton Garage is a great place to go for car enthusiasts. This rare car dealership and showroom houses an impressive collection of vintage and exotic automobiles. I was particularly drawn to the classic Porsche 911s, with their iconic sloping rear deck, round headlights, and rear-mounted air-cooled engines. The showroom also featured sleek Ferraris and a few McLarens too.

I also had the opportunity to visit a BYD dealership. While not available in North America due to market dynamics and potential import restrictions, I got to get a glimpse of these Chinese-made electric cars, that to me had Tesla-like qualities, but at a lower price point, thanks in part to Chinese government subsidies. A cool fact I learned about BYD’s innovative battery technology that they can make batteries that don’t ignite when punctured, potentially allowing the batteries to be integrated into the car’s frame to reduce weight.

Shopping and Urban Exploration

As far as Melbourne’s shopping scene goes, I discovered R.M. Williams, a store specializing in Goodyear welted shoes made of different types of leather (even kangaroo), known for their durability and ability to be resoled (and also very expensive).

We attempted to take the City Circle Tram, a free service that loops around the central business district. We had hoped to learn about the city from the onboard commentary, but unfortunately found it difficult to hear over the noise of the tram and decided to explore on our own instead.

Our exploration also included a leisurely walk along the Yarra River, which winds through Melbourne. On the Sandridge Bridge, it features the “Travellers” exhibit, which is a series glass panels that offer information about the indigenous peoples of Australia and information about the demographics of immigrants (where they’re from, how many there were, why, etc.), reflecting the diverse cultural heritage of the nation. A common theme was that in the 21st century, across the westernized world, we’re being less and less likely to take on immigrants from weaker economic backgrounds.

Check here to see more of Melbourne, and the Oakridge Winery

Circular Quay

The Sydney Opera House, with its distinctive sail-like design, is not just an architectural marvel but also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Completed in 1973, this masterpiece by Danish architect Jørn Utzon has become synonymous with Sydney’s skyline. Its unique expressionist modern design features a series of precast concrete “shells” that form the roof structure, creating a striking silhouette against the harbour waters.

Adjacent to the Opera House stands the equally impressive Sydney Harbour Bridge. This steel bridge opened in 1932 and remains the world’s largest steel arch bridge. There is a tourist attraction there where people can walk along the arch of the steel beams (people are tethered for safety).

Souvenir shops lined the waterfront selling stereotypical Australian souvenirs like kangaroo and koala plushies. They also sell a lot of hats, which I recalled that those are also very stereotypically Australian thanks to people like Steve Irwin, the Crocodile Hunter.

The Royal Botanic Garden

Established in 1816, this green oasis in the heart of Sydney is Australia’s oldest scientific institution. The gardens showcase a diverse collection of native and exotic plants, especially ones that are not present where I live. One of the standout flora was the Bird of Paradise plant, native to South Africa but thriving in Sydney’s climate. Its vibrant orange and blue flowers, resembles an exotic bird in flight.

I also encountered a variety of birds that I don’t usually see (I’m told some of them are garbage birds though). One amusing incident involved birds in the trees nearly missing some oblivious bystanders with their droppings (and oblivious even after the fact).

The Royal Botanic Garden proved to be more than just a green space; it was a living museum of biodiversity, a sanctuary for urban wildlife, and a peaceful retreat from the city’s bustling energy.

Barangaroo

We also took a walk through a nearby neighbourhood called Barangaroo. This area, named after an influential Aboriginal woman from the early colonial period, has undergone a remarkable transformation from a disused container terminal to a vibrant waterfront precinct with a mix of parklands, cultural spaces, and modern architecture.

Walking through Barangaroo, with its urban renewal, reminded me of strolling through Yaletown and Olympic Village in Vancouver, offering harbour views and an urban atmosphere.

Manly Beach

People also associate beaches with Australia. Close by to Sydney is Manly Beach. This popular stretch of golden sand is renowned for its excellent surfing conditions and laid-back atmosphere, and it also has an amusing name. According to Capt. Arthur Phillip, who named the beach, wrote of the indigenous people living there, “their confidence and manly behaviour made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place”

Birds also hang out in the nearby trees, chirping so loudly, they sounded like bats. It almost makes it scary to even approach the tree even though I know they’re just birds.

Manly Beach encapsulates the quintessential Australian beach culture – a perfect blend of natural beauty, outdoor activities, and relaxed coastal living.

Culinary Adventures

Sydney’s culinary scene proved to be quite delightful and exotic. In the spirit of trying local specialities, I sampled grilled kangaroo at The Meat and Wine Co. This lean meat, similar in texture to beef, offered a milder flavour with a subtle gamey note. It’s a unique protein that reflects Australia’s distinctive fauna and culinary traditions.

Another local delicacy at The Meat and Wine Co I had the pleasure of tasting was barramundi, also known as Asian sea bass. This white-fleshed fish is prized for its sweet, buttery flavour and firm, moist texture. When cooked, barramundi offers a delicate taste that’s less “fishy” than many other species.

Dinner with friends I know in Sydney at Bar Totti’s was another culinary delight. This pasta place came highly recommended, and it did not disappoint. Luckily, we had a reservation because by the time we arrived, there was a crowd of people waiting at the door. This trendy eatery has earned a reputation for its exceptional pasta dishes cooked al dente with flavourful sauces that complement rather than overwhelm the pasta itself. It’s also renowned for its baked bread, a signature item on their menu. The bread is served fresh out of the oven, airy and fluffy on the inside with a perfectly crisp crust. It’s also accompanied by a variety of dips and spreads.

I also found myself developing a newfound appreciation for salads, discovering that they can be far more than just a boring mix of greens. The city’s cafes showcased salads bursting with variety – multiple types of leafy greens, complex carbohydrates, diverse proteins, and flavourful dressings that elevated the humble salad to a satisfying meal.

Overall, I was quite impressed by Sydney’s food scene.

See more of Sydney here

The ruins contain several temples and plazas central to Mayan religious and civic life dating back to 200-900 AD. Our guide explained that Altun Ha was a vital trading outpost and agricultural hub in its era. We learned that the site gets its name from the Mayan words for “water” and “stone,” likely referring to the stone water reservoirs enabling life in this area.

Wandering through the sprawling ruins, we spotted many of the tropical trees thriving in Belize’s humid climate. Our guide pointed out plants like avocado, and allspice trees that would have sustained the Mayan people centuries ago. I got to sniff a fragrant allspice leaf, though the guide told us not to chew it since it’d cause irritation in the mouth. It made me chew it even more, but I didn’t dare chew it until I got back on the cruise ship, but by then, the leaf had lost its potency.

We also learned more about Mayan concepts of beauty and status. The guide explained that elongated skulls, flattening forehead bones, filing teeth, and inlaid jade flakes signified nobility and were considered highly attractive. The famous Jade Head sculpture found at Altun Ha in the 1960s would have adorned a spiritual leader. Its craftsmanship and 15 pounds of precious greenstone underscored the power and status of its owner in ancient times.

Wandering through the stone temples and plazas of Altun Ha gave us a glimpse into daily and ceremonial life centuries ago. It was eye-opening to visualize the rituals, agriculture, and artifacts underscoring this vital Mayan trade hub. The allspice, and avocado trees surrounding us emphasized the continuity between past and present in this region.

See more of Altun Ha here

Barcelona

Our journey began in the Catalan capital of Barcelona, where we enjoyed some classic seafood paella before boarding our ship. The rice had absorbed the rich broth, and the heat from the cooking created a nice crust at the bottom of the pan. Tender squid, juicy shrimp, and mussels mingled with the perfectly seasoned rice. The diversity of textures and robust flavors in each mouthful gave us a true taste of the region’s iconic cuisine. We scraped the final grains of rice from the pan. Maybe one day I could make a paella as good as this to recreate this experience.

With only a little time before our cruise departure, we took a quick stroll down the famous Las Ramblas to soak in the vibrant city atmosphere, even though it was difficult to navigate while carrying our luggage. This was okay though as we’ve visited Barcelona before.

Valencia

Our first port of call was Valencia, known for its impressive medieval old town. We started in the bustling central market, but found out it was closed on Sundays, and instead only saw people outside selling old junk from their houses. The only interesting thing there were Spanish Pokemon cards.

We then visited the 15th century La Lonja silk exchange, a UNESCO World Heritage site noted for its Gothic architecture. Though no longer a center of commerce, this historic building transports visitors back to Valencia’s golden era. This grandiose building with its colonnaded central hall and twisting columns was the center of Valencia’s thriving silk trade for centuries.

As we arrived at the Valencia Cathedral, we were treated to an unexpected scene. Groups of children and adults dressed in elaborate traditional costumes were flocking to the cathedral. We thought this parade might have been part of the annual Las Fallas festival, but it wasn’t that time of the year.

On the edge of the old town, we visited the Torres de Serranos, a part of the city’s medieval fortifications from the 14th century. The towers rise nearly 20 meters high on either side of the gates. They were originally linked by a bridge over the road, from which arrows and boiling oil could be rained down on would-be invaders. Despite some damage over the centuries, the twin towers have survived as an imposing relic of Valencia’s medieval defenses.

One of the more whimsical sights we a cat door built into the wall of a building, and it allows the city’s stray cats to come and go as they please. Another sight was visiting the outside of the bullfighting arena. Even though there was no bullfighting event happening at the time, it still allowed us to see this iconic part of Spanish culture.

We were only able to scratch the surface, and next time we go back, we’ll go to stuff we wanted to go to but didn’t have time for like the City of Arts and Sciences complex.

Ibiza

Another stop along the cruise was in sunny Ibiza, which offers a vibrant mix of beachside relaxation and exploration of historic sights. During our recent visit, we discovered some of the island’s cultural gems, the island’s famous walled old town of Dalt Vila, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the window of our room on the cruise ship, we could see the Dalt Vila.

Strolling through Dalt Vila, the diverse architectural influences are striking, from the grand Catalan-Gothic Catedral de Santa Maria d’Eivissa to the humble whitewashed houses draped with vibrant flowers. We also spotted the 16th century Castell d’Eivissa perched atop the highest point. We could even spot our cruise ship docked at the port far below.

After taking in the impressive cathedral, we continued to stroll Dalt Vila’s labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets. Flower-filled balconies and whitewashed houses flanked our path. The charming architecture and relaxed pace made it easy to imagine life centuries ago within these walls. Before heading back down the hill, we stopped at a cafe tucked within the city walls. There we sipped mojitos (albeitly overpriced), the perfect refreshing drink after ourwalk, and soaked in the ambience around us.

Our day in Dalt Vila provided a beautiful glimpse into Ibiza’s history and culture. Getting lost in its winding alleys while surrounded by medieval architecture was an unforgettable experience. We can’t wait to return to further explore this magnificent walled city.

See here for more of Barcelona, Valencia, and Ibiza

Returning to the vibrant city of Berlin, I embarked on a journey filled with intriguing sites, delicious flavors, and profound moments. As I wandered through the streets, I encountered both familiar landmarks and new experiences.

It’s well known that Germany has a large Turkish population, and as a result, Turkish food is prevalent across the country, especially the döner kebab. We stumbled upon TERAS Berlin and I can safely say it’s the best döner I’ve had. There is even a framed photo of Angela Merkel eating their döners!

We walked around the city, and eventually made our way to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Somehow the irregular placement of each concrete block gives the whole area an eerie feeling – something just doesn’t feel right, which is pretty apt for the purpose of the memorial.

Not far from memorial, there is a sign indicating the location of where Hitler’s bunker used to be. Nothing of the old bunker remains and the area is now apartment blocks and parking lots. If it weren’t for the sign, people would have forgotten all about it.

Later, we got a drink at the Lindenbräu at the Sony Center. I’d been looking forward for a Bananenweizen since we arrived. It just didn’t hit the same as it did before. Maybe my taste buds are more picky now

The next day we took a tour of the Reichstag. The Reichstag is the seat of the German parliament, and it has been since the founding of the Germany as a country.

The dome at the top has since been rebuilt since the war. It’s replacement is a panoramic glass done that allows people to have a 360 degree view of the city. The glass represents the transparency in government.

When I first went to Berlin in 2011, I learned about the Ampelmann, the symbol used on pedestrian walking lights in East Berlin and other parts of former East Germany. I thought it was kind of a cool quirk of Berlin, but now its popularity has exploded. There’s almost always an Ampelmann shop in every tourist district.

We visited the Rausch Chocolatier near our hotel. I always thought it was a chocolate shop targeted at tourists. But now knowing more about chocolate and having a better palate, I found that they do in fact do chocolate well. They still make the typical sugary kind, but also the single origin stuff with specified percentages of cocoa.

Nearby was the Gendarmenmarkt, normally a picturesque square bustling with activity. However, it was under maintenance during my visit. I guess this is typical of travelling during low season (February in our case) – this is the time to do maintenance on stuff.

Later, we made our way to Checkpoint Charlie, a legendary checkpoint in Berlin’s history. It was once a border crossing between East and West Berlin. It stands as a symbol of the Cold War era and the division of the city. Today, a replica of the guardhouse and a sign mark the historical site, attracting visitors who seek to understand Berlin’s past. It serves as a poignant reminder of the struggles endured by those seeking freedom and reunification.

At Topography of Terror, we delved into the darker chapters of Berlin’s history, reflecting on the atrocities committed during the Nazi regime. It’s a free museum documenting the Nazi war crimes. The biggest surprise for me there was seeing so many of the perpetrators of the crimes either committed suicide or were handed short sentences, which felt like they were let off easy considering what they did.

In addition to finding the best döner, I’ve found the best currywurst – at Curry61. Currywurst is a beloved German street food delight. A juicy sausage is generously slathered with a zesty curry ketchup and sprinkled with aromatic curry powder. The result is a harmonious symphony of savory, tangy, and slightly spicy notes for the palate. Each bite of the sausage releases juices, mingling with the vibrant sauce to create an explosion of flavour.

In the rain, we visited the Berlin Wall Memorial. It stands as a reminder of the division that once existed. This solemn site encompasses preserved segments of the wall, offering a tangible connection to the past. As we walked along the memorial, we could see the stark contrast between the barren death strip and the vibrant cityscape beyond. People can still buy pieces of the Berlin Wall – apparently there was so much of the wall that they can sell these pieces for years.

Totally by chance, that morning, I saw a news post about a destroyed Russian tank parked in front of the Russian Embassy in Berlin – we had to see it. This bold and symbolic protest highlighted the ongoing tensions and conflicts surrounding the Ukraine War. It’s a brutal reminder to the Russians that what they were doing in Ukraine isn’t working. This showed me that visiting places isn’t just about the tourist attractions, but also the zeitgeist that influences them.

Another piece of the zeitgeist is seeing more and more electric car stores popping up everywhere – this time from a Chinese brand called Nio in the shopping district of Kurfürstendam. It feels as if tons of these companies are coming out of the woodwork now that Tesla is so big. It’s also one of the many luxury stores in the Kurfürstendam. The neighbourhood epitomizes the city’s cosmopolitan flair. Lined with luxury boutiques, trendy cafés, and bustling shops, it is a haven for shoppers and fashion enthusiasts.

By the end of the day, word had spread and now a giant crowd gathered around the destroyed tank in front of the Russian embassy. People all over the city came out to show their support of Ukraine.

The protest continued at Brandenburg Gate. By then a whole stage was set up with someone at the mic calling out for peace and justice. It was quite a sight to behold.

At that moment, it occurred to me that the Ukraine War is a lot closer to the people in Berlin than it is to people like us who live in North America.

On our last day, we visited Museum Island. Museum Island is a cultural treasure trove, a UNESCO World Heritage site that houses an extraordinary collection of museums and art galleries. From the impressive Pergamon Museum to the Neues Museum’s ancient Egyptian artifacts, each institution showcases a unique aspect of history, art, and culture.

Also on Museum Island is the Berlin Cathedral, a majestic architectural marvel. By random chance, entry that day was free. We got to see its magnificent domed structure, adorned with intricate details, as it dominates the city’s skyline. The cathedral’s significance extends beyond its religious importance, as it is also the dynastic tomb of the House of Hollenzollern, the former royal family of Germany. Unfortunately, the tomb was under renovation, so we could not visit it.

A short walk further, we reached Alexanderplatz, the bustling heart of Berlin. It’s a cool area showing the remnants of the former East Berlin, but otherwise, I didn’t find what was so enticing of a place to go except that it’s picturesque aside from visiting the Fernsehturm, which didn’t exactly align with my interests.

The East Side Gallery, a living testament to freedom and artistic expression, stretches along a remaining section of the Berlin Wall. This open-air gallery showcases a captivating collection of murals created by artists from around the world. Each artwork reflects the hopes, dreams, and struggles of a divided city and the triumph of unity. Originally, it was painted by artists after the opening of the Berlin Wall, but now different sections of the wall get routinely repainted to show the zeitgeist of our society.

Our last destination was Markthalle IX. This historic market hall has been transformed into a bustling food destination, where local vendors showcase their artisanal products and delights. While it had lots of stalls ranging from produce to specialty cheeses, baked goods, and international cuisines, it seemed to cater mostly to tourists (it’s also expensive). It was also super crowded and grungy and not exactly the type of place I wanted to be at.

See more of Berlin here